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I have a 2000 skidoo tundra snowmachine. The starter cord has pulled out and won't go back in. Is this something I can fix myself (I am reasonably handy) or do I have to take it to the shop?

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  • Master
  • 14,553 Answers

The rewind mechanism is bad---I would take it to an expert and have it repaired or on a unit of this age replaced.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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tbirdfan1
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SOURCE: replaced battery now car won,t start.starter seems

Hi there
first i would recheck all of the connections to see if they are all tight including the ones for the starter..than make sure that the battery is fully charged. and make sure that the battery has enough cold cranking amps for your vehical . than if that still doesnt work than i would take the starter to a autozone they will test it for free.

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: After starting my 91 camaro the starter enguage

Replace the starter you will or have damaged the starter drive and could ruin the teeth on the fly wheel. The spring has gone bad in the solinoid or the shaft thats is activated magnetically is dirty and sticking, ther could be a problem with the starter switch but that is less likely than the solinoid.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: hi i have 2000 toyota tundra my friend hooked up a

manufacturer specific codes to do with the body i believe

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

jturcotte
  • 8266 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2000 buick

Hi, the best way to find the problem is to interrogate the starter relay socket. You will need a 12 volt test light to do this. The starter relay is in the fuse box under the hood. Pull the relay out, connect your test light clip to chassis ground and probe the terminals in the relay socket. With the key off, there should be one terminal that lights the test light. If not, check the 30 amp starter fuse in the same box. If yes, turn the key to start and probe the terminals again. There should be another terminal that lights the light. If not, check the 10 amp PCM fuse in the same box. If this fuse is good, but still no test light, suspect the ignition switch. If you get both test lights on when the switch is turned to start, move your test light clip to battery positive and probe the other two terminals. One of these terminals goes to the starter solenoid and should light the test light dimly. If not, the wire is broken somewhere. The other terminal should light the light brightly when the key is turned to start--this is the PCM start signal, which is ground whenever the passlock system is not activated and the transmission is in park or neutral. If you do not get this light, suspect your passlock system is not seeing a factory key in the ignition switch or the park/neutral switch may be broken. If passlock is activated, there should be a security light on the dash or a red light blinking.

Please check the fuses first and let me know the results of your tests or, if you don't have a test light or voltmeter, I can provide some less effective troubleshooting steps.

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Posted on Jun 19, 2011

johnjohn2
  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Chevy s10 manual changed

Do you have the correct starter and is it grinding, this sounds like a bad flywheel or wrong starter or even a bad one. look at teeth of flywheel and see if they are damaged. good day

Posted on Jun 19, 2011

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Please replace your starter relay in the fuse panel under the hood.Remember to rate my solution this is how i earn my achievements also testimonial Thanks much in advance.

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My 2007 tundra went dead. The ignition won't start


There are several possibilities ranging from a defective starter, to bad cable connections, to the onboard security system locking out the starter relay, or an aftermarket accessory interfering with the starter circuit, or a locked-up/damaged engine.

I have had vehicles towed into my shop for similar complaints when the only problem was that the customer was using a cheap duplicate key that they had made at the hardware store that did not have the required computer chip in it.

I have also had vehicles towed in where the customer had replaced the battery and did not have good cable connections or forgot to connect one of the wires that was supposed to to get hooked-up to the battery connector.

Then there are the questions: Are you getting any kind of "clicking" noises when turning the key or is it completely dead? If it is clicking, WHAT is clicking? Is it the starter motor itself that you hear or just the starter motor relay? Do you have battery power at the starter "S" terminal when turning the key? If not, is the transmission selector in "PARK"? Does the shift indicator on the dash indicate that the transmission range sensor is in "PARK"? (possible defective transmission range sensor) Are there any fault codes stored in ANY of the modules connected to your onboard computer network?

It is really hard to say without being able to see the truck.

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not sure, you could test it. Alternatively, I think I'd first be looking more at the starter solenoid and test that.
Best regards
Ck
Please provide feedback

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