Question about 1987 Jeep Cherokee
Was working and then just quit
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cruise control quit working.
there are a few things that can inhibit the cruise control on a jeep, and the more prevalent one is a vacuum leak in that circuit (hose) that runs off the intake manifold (rearmost one with the check valve in it), which then jogs over to the passenger side of the vehicle, and takes a dive down under the battery tray to the vacuum reservoir. if you are creative about making a plug after pulling the hose off the intake manifold, and then disconnect the tiny hose from the cruise control actuator, also on the passenger side of the engine compartment, and then pull vacuum either with your mouth or a small vacuum pump, then you've proven that this is not the reason the system is not working. Also, if your valve cover rearmost vacuum line to the intake manifold is 'leaky', it will cause this as well as other issues, such as defroster or air conditioning not to blow thru the air vents into the crew cabin, but only onto the windshield defroster vents. if this turns out not to be the problem, and the hose and valve cover fitting are in good shape (the center section of this is plastic and brittle and subject to cracking and breaking, by the way!), it's a good time to start to suspect the brake pedal switch. this switch has contacts that do more than just allow the brake lights to come on, there are cruise control 'inhibit' contacts in this switch as well. and yes, these do tend to go bad. in any case, if the instrument cluster blue light never comes on, it suggests that the system has more than vacuum problems and this brake pedal switch is most likely the cause if there is no other known electrical problem, such as an open circuit for the cruise control. I wish I could offer more, but the liklihood of the actuator being the root cause of this failure, is pretty slim, and there is not much else for you to play with, though there is probably an Engine Control Module possibility here, as a group of five or six Cruise Control wires actually go into that box. In any case, do the vacuum hose and vacuum checks first, then start to think about the 30 dollar switch on the brake pedal.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
first, there is no 'fuse' identified in either of the Haynes or Chilton's manuals. I've looked. There could be a 'fuse link' somewhere in the line, as it's incomprehensible the folks at Chrysler would design this vehicle with a fire hazard built into it like that, no fuse or fuse link or relay known, but the mythological 'fuse' referenced in the troubleshooting section of both manuals.
In any case, if the vacuum line appears to not leak when you open it and **** on the line going to the rest of the vacuum system, or pull vacuum on it with a small handheld vacuum pump, and it doesn't leak, it then becomes an 'electrical' issue.
mine worked flawlessly for a a long time, and suddenly without warning 'died' and wouldn't work one day. It didn't go out on the job, in other words.
last but not least, references to the brake switch are made, but if the brake lights work, that seems to eliminate the brake switch as a possibility.
sounds expensive taking it to a Jeep dealership, but if you have a reputable one (hahahahahahah!) in your vicinity, they might zero in on it fast and fix it cheap, then again, they may not. Driving this vehicle without cruise control across country isn't so bad, but it requires a lot of foot wedging near the pedal, to get that done without having a very tired leg over time.
Posted on Jun 14, 2008
Fuse # 20, located in the Junction Block (interior, drivers side). This is a ten amp fuse.
Read the information at the above site. The TSB (technical service bulletin) may be of interest to you.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
the symptoms you describe (by now you've fixed this, no doubt) are a severe vacuum leak. if it were a lesser leak, you would get defrost part of the time when you are not pulling a lot of power, or in other words, driving down the road at a steady speed and not trying to pass or accellerate.
the vacuum lines in Jeep Grand Cherokee's are very 'brittle' and 'crack' and the rubber parts 'ionize' and fall apart, or 'leak' from that degradation of the rubber. if you are ingenious, you can disconnect portions of the system (focus on the last line coming off the intake manifold but also check all the lines coming off the intake manifold and even the valve cover breather, as any of these will cause a vacuum leak to occur and do exactly what you are seeing.
Jeep, of course, wants a relative fortune for these cheap rubber parts, but with a bit of ingenuity, you can cobb together the necessary fittings and reducers from other sources, like parts from WEST MARINE (a boat supply outfit) and make your transitions out of nylon, and or brass. Seal everything well with RTV, let it cure, and make sure each 'home made' fitting you build yourself is 'airtight' before you put it on the Jeep.
your vacuum diagram should be on the crossbar just above the radiator, on the right hand side of your jeep as you look into the engine compartment, for your reference. best if you do not take all of it apart, but work with one section at a time.
you'll find your vacuum leak, and then you'll probably have working cruise control and air vents!
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
it might not be that. check your headlamp relay. i know sounds weird but just do it. when i bought mine it had already been replaced with the wrong one so it kept blowing it and the radio. replaced with stock part and just like that no more problems. hope it helps
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
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