Question about 2005 Chrysler 300
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First, remove the broken belt very carefully. Then, prepare your work
area. Having the right tools are critical. A serpentine belt
remover/adjuster, Mopar Part #23-w3221 can really help save you time.
It is a silver plier-looking tool with a gold tip that has a solid
microprocessor embedded into the base.
Now, jack up the front end with tire jacks and stablizers. Make sure your battery is fully disconnected. Take your spare key, and insert into the lip of the fuse box and twist 1/3 turn to the left. Now press hard, forcing the top to pop. Wash out the air cleaner while your at it or you may wish you had. Dust in a power converter steering box modulator rack box is a no no
Ok, pop a couple of beers, chug one and sip the other. At this point you will either start getting sleepy or creepy. Pop a couple more beers, power drain these down your esophogus and hopefully the creepy thing will fade quickly
Install the belt according to the package schematic, but without adding the d-clip retainer ring supplied. You may need to bend the alignment washer 6-7 degrees south of the ring equator balance indicator. Once the belt is loosely hung on the balance jam level bar, take up about 34mm of slack. More or less, and you can kiss the new belt goodbye.
Pop the last two beers of the six pack, and make it a day.
I would also recommend to replace the timing belt adjuster as I have them seen also lose hydraulic pressure after compressing it in a vice and the belt slipping a tooth or two off the timing. You will probably find there will a transfer pipe across that travels across the lenght of the V6 valley, have a look into this as there is usally a BIG o'ring on the transfer tube that sits in the back of the water pump plate on the engine, make sure you replace that also as I have seen that leak also
Just incase you are unsure mate, I have attached a pic for you with a bit of info about your timing belt, they are marked in a direction of travel, make sure this is put on the correct way, I have coloured the belt in 2 shades of colour, you MUST have the PINK section tight all the way around between both cam shaft pulleys around the crank pulley and back to the bottom of the idler pulley and I mean tight, no slop or belt deflection at all, you can use your spanner to help roll the cam pulley a few mm forward to get it really tight but also must line up to the timing marks, these are usally marked on your tappet covers but I see yours are marked on your timing case, the BLUE section is where you should only have the belt loose as this is where all the rest of the belt tension is achieved with the belt tension, if you don't think it is tight enough try it a few times ie take the belt off and try it a few times before you pull the lynch pin out on your belt tensioner as trust me they don't like to be compressed too often.
Timing Belt 3.5L / PDF File
Good luck (rated this help).
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
In the 2006 manual The fuse for this is listed as #44. It is a 20 AMP fuse. Looking at the diagram, it appears to be one of the larger square shaped ones that are, It is listed to be in the "Power Distribution Center".
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
Testimonial: "thank you for the info. But all I need to know is WHERE IS DISB CENTER IS? Under the hood? Is it inside? Thx again Rich"
SOURCE: 2006 chysler 300 has issues
There is a software update that will fix your problem with lights flickering on and off. Common problem with 300's. They did it to mine and fixed problem. Dealer was dumbfounded by problem. Diagnosed as bad battery. Wrong! There was a service bulletin put out about this problem
Posted on Feb 10, 2011
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