Question about 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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Heater doe not work

I have replaced the broken blend door and still nothing? Could it be the thermostat?

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When the engine is at operating temp, feel both the heater hoses (half the diameter of the radiator hose, twice as long, and they both go into the firewall next to each other.) If one is hot, and the other is cold, your heater core is plugged. If they are both hot, the blend door still isn't working. If they're both cold (and the engine is typically running cool), then check your thermostat.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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My heater stoped working the a\c still works and fuses are fine

Either the heater core is clogged or busted, or a blend door is broken.
YOU TUBE has a lot of videos on this subject.

Jan 28, 2016 | 1998 Ford Expedition


Why Is My Heater Cold?

This is a very common question that does not have a single answer. There are several things that can cause your heater to not work properly. The object of this article is to help you to determine which part of your heater system is causing your particular problem.

First, you must understand that the heater is part of your engine cooling system. Then, it also has its own parts inside the vehicle that have absolutely nothing to do with the engine cooling system. The trick to getting your heater working is to first determine which part of the heater system has the problem.

The first step is to verify proper engine cooling system operation. There is more to this than just replacing a thermostat (like many people will probably tell you to do). If you have a problem like a blown head gasket or a defective water pump, your heater will not work. What SHOULD be done is to operate the engine while watching the computer data for the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT). Doing this, you can verify that the engine is warming up to operating temperature. You can also verify that the thermostat is opening at the correct temperature by watching the computer data. The engine temperature will drop when the thermostat opens.

Then, use an infrared thermometer to take a manual temperature reading from the engine near the temperature sensor. The reading you get from the thermometer should be within about 5 degrees of the reading that the computer is getting from the ECT sensor.

You can also see when the thermostat opens by using the thermometer. The radiator hoses and radiator tanks should not start getting hot before the temperature of the thermostat housing is between 187 and 195 Deg. F (87 to 90 Deg. C). Checking thermostat operation in this way will eliminate unnecessarily replacing the thermostat if it is working correctly.

Also check for a clogged-up heater core by taking the temperature of the heater inlet and outlet hoses. The inlet hose should be within about 10 Deg. of the thermostat housing temperature. The outlet hose is normally 20 to 30 Deg. cooler than the inlet hose. If the outlet hose is much cooler than this, there is most likely a restriction in your heater core.

The engine cooling fans should come on between 220 and 228 Deg. F (104 - 108 Deg. C). When they do come on, the air that is blowing through the radiator should be HOT. If it is not, this is an indication that the radiator is stopped up, the water pump is not pumping correctly, or there is a blown head gasket that is filling your cooling system with combustion gasses.

If you do not have access to a scan tool that can read live engine data, all of this can be done with just the thermometer, but it is best to also verify the computer ECT data.

Please note
that a pretty good infrared thermometer can be purchased at most any auto parts outlet for around $40 (US). It is a good investment because you can use it for many other things and it costs about half as much as an hour of diagnostic time at most shops. For most automotive purposes, you need one that can read from 0 to 700 Deg. F (-10 to 370 Deg. C).

If the engine cooling system is working properly, it is time to look INSIDE the car for the problem. The blend-air door in your A/C-heater housing may not be working. When you switch the temperature control inside the car, you should be able to HEAR a change in the air flow. This applies to ALL vehicles, whether they are equipped with cable, vacuum, or electronically-controlled blend-air doors. If you cannot hear a difference in the sound of the air moving through the A/C-heater housing when the temperature controls are moved from HOT to COLD and back again, then chances are pretty good that the problem is with your blend-air door.

The actual problems that can occur with the blend-air door varies depending upon what type of system your vehicle is equipped with. It could be a disconnected or "out-of-adjustment" cable on cable-controlled doors. It could be a bad vacuum servo, broken vacuum line, or malfunctioning vacuum switching valve on vacuum-controlled systems. It could be a defective electronic blend-air door actuator or a bad electronic control unit on electronically-controlled HVAC units. It could also be that the blend-air door itself is broken on any of these systems.

If your engine cooling system is functioning correctly and you think you may have a blend-air door problem, it is probably best to get it checked by a professional that has the information, equipment and knowledge to check it out. Broken blend-air doors and defective blend-air door actuators are fairly common and often require removal of the instrument panel to repair them.

on Dec 06, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

I have a 2001 saturn sl2. No heat. I have flushed heater core today and replaced thermostat. Heater lines are warm. No other problems or leaks. What is causing no heat? Its cold all the time.

If after running the engine for 5 min both heater hoses are hot, it could be a blend door problem where air is not flowing thru the heater core. You may need a shop manual to troubleshoot the control.

Nov 23, 2015 | Saturn Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

'94 Ford Taurus-No Heat?

Good point. Solving it will probably take more time than money.
Thermostats and heater cores do not work one day and stop the next. If your engine warms up normally and doesn't overheat, the gauge reads normally, engine is at normal operating temperature after about 10-15 minutes ...all these point to a good thermostat. It is working right and should not be a problem.
To check the heater core, wait till engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn heat setting to high, then feel both heater hoses-both should be hot. If both are hot the core is circulating coolant and is not a problem. If only one is hot (which would be the inlet hose) the core is not circulating-could be an air block or the core is plugged up and will need replacing.
If heater core and thermostat are good, then it probably is the temperature blend door in the heater case. The door actuator is probably vacuum controlled. I don't know how difficult it is to troubleshoot on your Taurus, but check if vacuum controls are working right from the dash controls, check if the blend door is stuck, is broken, or if the vacuum control is working to open and close the blend door. When you want heat, the blend door should let blower air pass across the heater core.
From the engine you will have a single vacuum hose that goes through the firewall into the dash to the heater/AC controls. There, a pod like device can rout the vacuum signal to various doors on the heater case.
Good luck.

Jan 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No heat replaced heater core thermostat

So the blend door opens? Does the fan motor blow? Are both heater hoses hot? That would indicate the coolant is circulating through the core.

Dec 12, 2013 | Ford Windstar Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Have no heat. Have replaced heater core,

I don't know your vehicle, but does it have a blower door tucked in where the heater core is? If it DOES and that's broken then it could be the whole problem. It would mean it isn't switching from the A/C side of things to the heat side of them. Hope this helps, good luck! Also, just looked up the proper name for what I'm talking about, it's called a "blend door" and I think your car has one. It's what I would check, again, good luck!

Jan 20, 2010 | 2002 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

024 and 025 came up upon doing diagnostic check,on heating and cooling system .replaced heater core and heat inside vehicle. all fans and stuff work. except the one to open door at heater...

Those look to be blend door codes you could try resetting them, does the heater make a clicking sound? If that is so the blend door actuator is bad and needs replacing.

Oct 27, 2009 | 1996 Lincoln Town Car

2 Answers

Heater blows cold air, replaced thermostat &

try to back flush the heater core. and if that dont work check the blend door it see if it is working.

Oct 15, 2009 | 2002 Mitsubishi Galant

2 Answers

My heat works on the passenger side and not the drive i've changed the thermostat and still the problem hasn't changed

If you have good heat on one side, it can't possibly be the the thermostat. Good heat on one side means that there is plenty of hot water (water and antifreeze mix) circulating through your heater core. The thermostat controls the temperature of the water. If you have hot water, the thermostat is not at fault. Your Impala is equipped with what is called "zoned climate control". All the inside air (both sides) is still heated by the same heater core. The difference between a "zoned" system and a conventional system is that there is more than one "blend-air" door insided your HVAC housing. The blend-air door swings back and forth to direct the incoming air either through the heater core (for hot air) or around the heater core (for cold air) The drivers blend-air door may be broken or the motor that moves the blend-air door is malfunctioning.

Oct 10, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Impala

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