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Mitsubishi SRK25ZGA-S My pump is only blowing cold air i cant get it to blow hot???

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  • 43 Answers

Sounds to be ur blend door accuator, its a valve in ur air box under the dash that mixes the hot and cold air, best of luck

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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onyeredson
  • 404 Answers

SOURCE: Nissan Altima no cool air blowing or hot air blowing

Hi!
It appears we have an Air lock scenario and you will need to perform a system Bleed.
Park the vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap, start engine and leave to idle, turn heater on full and blower to max. When engine reaches operating temperature watch and listen near coolant filler, keep clear as gurgling and hopefully a boil over should occur. Top up with very warm coolant and wait as it may do it again.
Check for heat inside vehicle if warm replace coolant cap but keep an eye on temperature gauge as the ~Air lock may have moved on from heater matrix/core so proceedure needs to be carried out again from COLD.

Please press the Blue button to appraise my FREE Efforts, Thank You!
Paul 'W' U.K

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS blows cold air in heat mode.

ok here we go and you aren't going to believe it...
I replaced the thermostat step one

I noticed that I had a small leak at the engine side of upper hose fixed that by taking it off and cleaning it and putting the hose back on Step two

then while refilling the reservoir with coolant i found that the hose that was supposed to be in the fluid was curled up on top and not sticking down in the fluid where it should be.
played with the hose until i got it to fall down in the reservoir where it should be Step 3

I started the car with the radiator cap off and let it run until it got to normal operating temp. and keep filling the radiator with fluid until the level stayed constant. Then put the cap back on and test drove. Everything worked fine haven't had that much heat in awhile and it kept blowing hot even when i stopped and let it idle for ten min.during test drive. Checked reservoir when I got home and had to add a small amount of coolant but not much.

I really think that the hose in the reservoir not being in the right place and pulling air into the system instead of coolant is the real culprit of this drama, but i replaced the thermostat to be safe.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

longbow243
  • 103 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 chevrolet suburban AC blows hot/cold at same time

You need to replace the drivers side temp actuator that is located on the left side of the HVAC box. It is retained by 3 screws and is fairly easy to replace.

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

inspectmycar
  • 233 Answers

SOURCE: ac blowing hot air

the blend door actuator located on the air box (right hand side under dash) is prob. inop. worst case senerio the blend door its self is broken. I have replaced the actuator more than anything.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

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As per your problem mentioned.There are few solved help links to troubleshoot these problems.Go through the list and Click the link below:----
Air conditioner blows air but not cold air http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/07/air-conditioner-blows-air-but-not-cold.html

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Car overheats and Air blows hot at idle? http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

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