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Transmissions Fix for a Chevy Pickup

Transmission gave up under power need help - diagnosing it does seems to be a bit complicated the transmission the transmission shows no leaks yet at the tail of the transimission at the front of the transfer case is covered in black gear oil. The problem is that we lost all motion and putting the transmission in gear only makes a grinding sound. What would be the strategy for diagnosis?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: Reverse gear has grinding noise...?

Have them flush the fluid out under warranty and put in new fluid, and have them bleed the clutch lines in case air is getting in there. Audi and VW claim lifetime transmission fluid but it's BS - I've changed relatively low mile fluid from these cars and it was horrendous. It's possible that the fluid itself is causing trouble, but it's more likely that it is a synchro problem. If it was a clutch issue, you should have problems with more than just reverse gear - a clutch simply engages and disengages the engine and transmission, regardless of which gear it is. The problem (if not fixed by fluid) is in the transmission, and being under warranty, don't accept another "suggestion" like they're giving you. Changing your clutch isn't gonna do it.

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

  • 350 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 chevy 4wd

hi sounds like a bearing worn on one of the shafts causing a mashing of the gears sorry needs overhaul yates210456

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: Ring gear needs to be replaced on the flywheel

I've removed and replaced many,many of those transmissions,as well as the automatic trans version,and the 2 wheel drive version where a "dummy" transfer case is still in place but 2 wheel drive only,but that's another story entirely.The transfer case shifter will interfere with removal making it impossible to remove without breakage.The first technical tip on the hydraulic line disconnect at the transmission is the white plastic.Locate where the hard plastic hydraulic line comes over from the body,to the transmission.The line goes from small to big,and is gold in color.The female receiver socket is the hydraulic slave cylinder.In between the two gold halves that are attached as one is a round,white piece of plastic.This white plastic is plunged,evenly,and gently,into the slave cylinder with either a couple of small pocket screwdrivers,or there is a tool available specifically for this.The transfer case is attached with 5 or 6 bolts that from the factory,took a 13mm socket to remove.The point of the excercise of removing the driveshafts and the transfer case is because reinstallation with everything in place WILL be impossible.There is also an issue with the exhaust head pipe or Y pipe on the V6 version.The EASIEST and LEAST frustrating way to remove is actually MORE work,but in the end you will have to do it anyways.First is to support the transmission with a floor jack or trans jack,then remove the transmission crossmember and mount,13 mm,18mm,and 19 mm bolts,both driveshafts,mark with a marker before removal,to index the driveshafts the same way they came out and prevent any possible vibrations.Disconnect the transfer case shifter,just let it lay there off to the side,or fasten it up out of the way with a bungee cord.Disconnect speedometer,remove transfer case.Some trans fluid can drain out if you haven't drained it already.There is a gasket between the trans and transfer case,and if not replaced,you will have a leak there when reinstalled.Remove the starter and any bolts attached to the engine plate at the front of the trans.The shifter bolts on the transmission can be removed either through the cab of the vehicle which involves removing the rubber shifter boot assembly,then accessing the 3 shifter bolts,they take either a 25 or 27 torx socket,it's been awhile since i've seen a Bornco 2.Some guys leave the torx bolts in place and opt to remove the 18mm nut they see at the shifter stub.The nut can be removed,and then the pin driven out the opposite direction,but this leaves a shifter stub,about 3 inches tall that also interferes with removal and installation.I just remove the 3 torx bolts from under the truck with a tool i've made,and leave the shifter and boot hanging in the trans tunnel..After all that it is time to remove the bellhousing bolts,which are 13mm head.I believe 6 of them.Trans should slide out now.Check crankshaft endplay as part of your inspection procedure.The crankshaft thrust bearing is more prone to wear on a manual trans vehicle.It isnt hard to do,and requires a relatively long pry bar.You can hook your pry bar in between the flywheel and engine oil pan,and GENTLY pry the flywheel backwards.Now remove pry bar,place pry bar in between flywheel and the floor pan,or the transmission tunnel,and pry the flywheel back,give it a quick firm shove,towards the front of the vehicle.Acceptable endplay of the crankshaft is minimum .006" to maximum .015" and unacceptable of around .020"and up.Endplay can be checked with a magnetic base,or clamp base,dial indicator.After the endplay check,remove the flywheel to visually inspect the ring gear.Look for stripped teeth,or teeth that are missing or damaged in any way.I have replaced many a Ford,GM and Jeep and others,flywheel ring gears.An oxy/acetylene torch is required to remove and reinstall a new ring gear.Set the torch on medium to hot heat,place the flywheel on a steel workbench,ring gear up,and start contacting the ring gear with the flame,and keep the torch moving in a circular direction until the ring gear has heated up low glowing red or barely red.Knock off the old ring gear with a hammer and punch.Reinstallation is directly the opposite.You can also opt for a new flywheel,with a new ring gear,or good used if you can find it.Good luck.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: we are putting a clutch

Hi. Welcome to FixYa. I will do my best to assist you, with the hopes that you will award me with a FixYa rating for my assistance.

What I do, in my service department, is to pull the transmission and the transfer case as on unit. It is faster, and much simpler. There is no reason to pull them separately. That is way too much work.

I hope that this helps you out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: transmission fluid leaking from the overflow or vent tube or the

could have been expansion. chk fluid level and keep on trucking.. Good Luck -Ned-

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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