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1992 Mercury capri - Running great, then lost power, died. Started next day, very breif. Now will not start. I have replaced fuel pump and coil. No sparks from plugs.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 5,498 Answers

The next thing to check or replace is the ignition module-the TFI module attached to the distributor. It can be tested for operation at a parts store. I believe the module is held by 7/32 inch screws.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

  • 1 more comment 
  • Cindy Feb 14, 2013

    I I stalled new distributor (everything new in and on it). Car will start and runs for few minutes then cuts off. Like you turned switch off.

  • montehammons Feb 14, 2013

    And no spark when it cuts off? If so, I dunno, have a shop test your ignition system.

  • montehammons Feb 15, 2013

    Be sure and get any trouble codes-should have urged that first, sorry.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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short shadey
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SOURCE: 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo ... no spark and no fuel pressure

sounds like your crankshaft position sensor has failed it is located on the bellhousing and has a thick black lead off it with a three wire plug, also it should have 1 ten mm bolt holding it in place, this provides an impulse signal for spark and fuel injector pulse and the car wont run without it -jeff ps please rate and goodluck http://www.autopart.com/CrankSensor/CrankSensor1992JEEPCHEROKEE.htm this is also a suspect part but my money is on the crank sensor, this part is this camshaft sensor located in the distributer and will not kill the fuel in most cases just spark http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=301&partnum=C1929&a=FR301-C1929

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

mecanica03
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SOURCE: where is fuel pump relay on 1995 toyota camry

generally toyota, supply `power direct from ecu

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SOURCE: Subaru Legacy LS 4WD won't fire

timing belt broke most likley

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

B-Roosky
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: i am not getting power to my fuel pump

on a lot of ford products there is a switch that goes from the fuel pump to the inside of one of the bedsides.
what this is, is a shock switch that turns the fuel pump off if it absorbs a hit.
its a really dumb safety feature but its effective.
there is a red button on it that u have to press to make it active again.
sometimes they just trip for no reason.

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cranks but won't start like it has no gas

Sorry to burst your bubble but a 97 jetta no matter what model including the trek I and trek II dont have transponders in the keys that didnt start untile the 2000 jetta's

Posted on Jun 19, 2010

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Will idle but when ingage clutch and give it gas it spits and sputters and dies?


Sounds like coil packs are shot! Suggest replace and it should run great. The coil pack it what sets the fuel injectors to perform at peak proficiency on post 1990s cars because they did away with the distributor & rotor (use to be able to just turn distributor to rev it up or down "my wife use to be able to adjust the old ones".)

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1 Answer

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Most likely your problem is stemming from a faulty fuel pump.If in the past you have had problems taking longer than normal to start car,sluggish ect. this is a common problem.know your not alone.note there are other testes you can do.like relays and harness but that is up to you.If you can get someone to listen at fuel tank when you turn on your ignition switch to see if they can here a humming sound that is pump running.if no sound then you know for shure. I hope this helps you.

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2008 nissan altima a/c issues Last week the car stopped blowing cold air. After doing a pressure test, the low/high readings were both around 100. I assumed that the compressor wasn't kicking on. The compressor clutch had been working until this issue started but there was a noise that sounded like it was going bad. It had 100K miles on it so I replaced it. I also replaced the condensor (due to some damage on the front), the drier, and expansion valve. The only original component that showed a leak when I checked with my UV light was the drier....right at the based of the LP switch. After getting everything buttoned up i pulled vacuum on it for an hour and it held at 29". I then closed the valve and turned the pump off and let it sit for another hour. It was still holding at 29". I hooked up the freon to my manifold gauge and turned the car on with the a/c going. I charged the system until the low/high pressure was 37/190. The air was blowing colder about about 55 degrees. I thought it would be colder but it was an improvement. Once complete and everything disconnected, I turned the car off and went inside. I came back out a few minutes later and cranked the car....compressor wouldn't come on and warm air resumed. I ended up evacuating the system again and repeated the vacuum/recharge process again....cold air around 55 degrees. I reached over and turned the MAX A/C button on, the compressor went off and the warm air was back. I do not know if these two things are related but I also noticed that the condensor/radiator fans are not running at all. Could this be a sensor? Any help would be appreciated. I know enough about this stuff to be dangerous so if you give some tips, please simplify the best you can. Sometimes people give advice they forget that the little details stump us novices at times. ha. Thanks

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