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How do i fix the brake booster

Brake will not stop the car. Changed the brakes cylinder on one side,

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  • Master
  • 645 Answers

Start by replacing your brake pads, and while you have them off check the rotors for damage.
if you need a diagnostic tool you can click here: chinasinoy.com

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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txkjun
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SOURCE: brake pedal is hard to push and the car doesn't stop very well

Yes it could be the booster.

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-

Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 FORD F250 XLT 4WD - Had a hard brake pedal with hardly any brakes while standing on them. Replaced booster and wheel cylinders at same time now the pedal is mushy and no brakes.

They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

Posted on May 28, 2009

shocktroop40
  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: BRAKE BOOSTER?

A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking

it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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1 Answer

2010 town and country brake pedal dropping after changing all brake pads


Could be the ABS system/pump needs bled. Takes a scanner to do this.

Oct 16, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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I got a 99 dodge intrepid I changed the front brakes and calipers but the brake pedal doesn't go down any suggestions please


If it is hard to stop (brake doesn't go down). Check the vacuum line to the brake booster. Or the booster diaphragm is bad. The diaphragm is behind the master cylinder on the fire wall on the drivers side. Big, round and black.

Dec 21, 2014 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

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Brakes are hard to depress causing stopping problem


1: inspect all brake linings first.
no pulling left or right braking?
the car has 100% full manual brakes. if the brake booster fails.
(its only and assist !!! for 50lb small folks)
so does it? it takes more pedal pressure but has 100% full braking.
this is no accident its by design.
make sure none of the brake shoes/pads are soaked in DoT3/4 fluid
or grease or gear oil.
and no brake fluid leaks end to end, this is really #1 on all cars.
look, then look again. even behind and in front of the master cylinder.
look at tires (inside for fluid leaks>)
2: do the booster test. did the vacuum hose to it fall off?
or got pinched, or ?

google brake booster test
if ABS system. get it all checked,
if ABS get the ABS scanned.

if you cant stop correctly,,,,???? , dont drive.
get it fixed.

May 06, 2014 | 1999 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Replace brake booster


  • Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line to the master cylinder connection. The master cylinder is normally on the driver's side of the engine bay and mounted on the firewall. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the tube nut on the end of the brake line.
  • 2Disconnect the brake line. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. Note the location of each brake line. There are four lines total, and they need to be put back in the same location when reinstalling the lines. You may want to mark them with masking tape and permanent marker.

  • 3Unplug the master cylinder cap electrical plug.
  • 4Remove the brake master cylinder to brake booster bolts with a socket wrench.
  • 5Back the master cylinder off the brake booster.
  • 6Unbolt the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall on your vehicle.
  • 7Pull the cotter pin out of the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin with a pair of pliers. This is done inside the vehicle down in the driver side foot well.
  • 8Pull the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin out to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster connecting arm.
  • 9Mark and remove the vacuum hoses on the brake booster and slide the booster off the firewall.
  • 10Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal
  • Aug 06, 2012 | 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII

    1 Answer

    Spongy brakes


    So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

    Did you BLEED the brakes??????

    Mar 29, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

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    Brakes


    Your brake booster works off of engine vacuum. It's located behind the brake master cylinder. It may be the issue from what you describe.

    Oct 03, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Blazer

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    Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking


    it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

    Aug 16, 2009 | 2006 Fiat 124

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    Need to replace a brake booster on a 1998 chevy cavalier


    get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.

    Apr 26, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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    Need Break Booster Replaced


    The brake booster/ naster cylinder is located on the firewall on the drivers side of the vehicle. The master cylinder has a resivour (sp) which has a cap and holds brake fluid. The brake booster is right behind that, the master cylinder is bolted right to the booster. The booster looks like a big circle about 10 to 12 inches round and usually 4 to 6 inches thick. It will have a vaccum hose coming off the booster and going to the intake manifold. The master cylinder with have hard lines coming off it which are brake lines. Hope this helps.

    Mar 25, 2009 | 1992 Dodge Grand Caravan

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