Question about 1995 Toyota Corolla
The radio and lighter fuse are the same. The radio works fine.
On the back side of the lighter there is a fusable link between the incoming power wire and the metal tab that connects power to the lighter. This is a very small wire, bent 90 degrees, between two tabs that are mounted on the same small screw. It looks like the incoming power tab and the power to the lighter would be connected, but they are insulated from each other on the screw. If the fusable link is blown, you will have power at the power connector on the back of the lighter, but no power to the center terminal inside the lighter.
Posted on Dec 03, 2012
Is the radio an aftermarket unit? The compressor draws a lot of current and likely blew the fuse. If you have not already, pull the fuse and look at it. It will usually look burnt after "fusing", but you should check it with an Ohm meter as well regardless. Also examine the lighter socket itself, which may have been damaged by a non-Toyota connector. Another thing to check is the cigarette lighter unit itself. One way to test it is to push it into a different car's lighter socket. If it works, great. But if it doesn't, and the radio/lighter fuse is blown in the second car, then a shorted lighter hand-piece is suspected. If the lighter doesn't work and the radio/lighter fuse is not blown, then an open in the hand-piece's heating coil may be the culprit, which would explain the original problem as well. This problem has troubleshooting lore written all over it. Good Luck.
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Under the dash, under steering wheel to the left. Also check the fuse box under the hood over the drivers side wheel well.
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
If it was the front dash mounted lighter socket you used, the correct fuse is the 15A CIG & RADIO fuse (at the end of the second row) of the dash fusebox. If replacing the fuse hasn't fixed it, you may need to look closer at the wiring from the fusebox as it's likely the wiring has gone open circuit.
Take the fuse out and check for voltage at the terminals in the fusebox with the ingition key turned to the ACC position. One terminal or the other will have 12V on it. If no voltage on either you have a fusebox to ignition key wiring problem. Check for voltage on the ACC pin of the ignition switch, with the key turned to the ACC position. That's pin 3, a blue wire, of the 8 pin ignition switch connector. If still no volatge the switch is likely faulty. the voltage into the switch must be there as it also feeds the ECU and IGN systems, so the car wouldn't run at all if it wasn't.
There is another possibility. If you have an alarm system, immobilizer or turbo timer (assuming the GTT model) these devices could be interrupting the power lines and be the culprit devices.
I assume it wasn't the rear hatch area lighter socket you used, because the fuse for that doesn't power the radio or clock. The fuse for that socket is the 15A ACCESSORY fuse in the passenger side footwell fuse panel.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
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