Question about 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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I cant put my 98 2.5 ranger vacuum lines back

A cupple of them broke under the pass. frunt fender and i dont know what goes where

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  • wakeboarduhb Jan 06, 2009

    its lifted with glass fenders so taking the tire off isnt a problem but thers 5 differint lines and some broke in half and others are just hanging do you know where i can find a diagram to show my self


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From what I remember, the vacuum lines under there are shaped hard plastic so it should be pretty easy to figure out where they go on the vacuum ball that's hidden in the fender. You'll know you've connected them all when your heater isn't "stuck" on defrost.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • jennifer godlewski Jan 04, 2009

    I forgot to add that it'll be WAY easier to get at all of that stuff if you remove the tire and inner fender. Once you have a good view of the stuff in there, it'll be more obvious.

  • jennifer godlewski Jan 06, 2009

    Hmm... well you can go to Checker, Autozone, or other parts house and buy a Chilton or Haynes manual. Both of those repair manuals usually have great diagrams. Or you can get on eBay an buy a digital manual that is more model/ year specific. The paper copy will probably be instantly available, though more money. The disc manual will be cheaper and more specific, but you have to wait for it to come with the snail mail.


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My 98 ford ranger is blowing only hot air on the cold setting. Do you know why?

you can buy a kit at Walmart fairly cheap, and do it yourself. it may take 2-3 cans of coolant. make sure you dont buy the kind with the sealer in the coolant. Because if you take it to a shop, they aren't happy about the sealant having to be separated.... most say the you should add the coolant on the low side. To make sure call a local shop and they should tell you. I put mine in on the low side.... Good luck c89ef4b8-5f76-4281-b112-d17d8fb485b7.gif

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My 1997 ford ranger a/c dash vents won't blow

Vacuum supply starts on the drivers side of the engine. There is a vacuum line going into the brake vacuum assist from the manifold. branching off of that line is a double line that snakes under the intake manifold, behind the valve cover, along side the valve cover on the passenger side headed to the front of the engine. Then it curves to the right side of the engine. One set of hoses from this line goes to a valve control (red and green i think). The other line goes to the vacuum storage ball, it should be black. The vacuum circuit continues out of the ball in another black line that snakes into the firewall. It goes under the heater core black box and disappears under it. Now go into the passenger compartment and drop the glovebox. look to the back right you will see a black and a white vacuum line coming out of the firewall. The black line is your vacuum supply from the engine. It goes up to a little rubber manifold. disconnect the lines coming from the dash switch and check for vacuum on the manifold where the black line is going in. The white line controls the cabin air intake under the glovebox and the thermostat shutoff under the hood. It should only have vacuum when the switch is in a certian position, AC probly. The other three lines coming off the rubber manifold snake behind the dash vent door assemble and come out near the gas peddle. The red one controls the dash vent. apply vacuum to the red hose and see if the vents go to the center dash position/AC. The yellow and blue? ones control the floor vent control near the gas peddle. yellow gives you half floor and half defrost. blue gives you all floor. you can use a small vacuum line to connect the black vacuum supply to each individual line on the manifold and check the function of each vacuum control assembly individually. I hope this helps. On my truck each control unit works fine when i apply vacuum to them individually but when I hook the dash switch up to the rubber manifold it goes to defrost. I tried changing the dash switch and the lines running from the switch to the rubber manifold and the vacuum ball under the hood, nothing works. I suspect I may have leak i just haven't found yet. next step is to get a vacuum gage and start checking the amount of vacuum i am getting at each vacuum line. I'm sure it is supposed to be getting a specific amount of vacuum and will not work if the vacuum drops below a certian level due to a leak in a line somewhere? God bless.

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1 Answer

2002 ranger 4x4 does not work. I changed 4x4 motor not geting power to it. Need wiring diagram for 4x4 system

There is power relay in the under hood fuse box on drivers side fender well.Usally this is the culprit.

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Have a 2008 Ford E450 Class C M/H with a Triton V-10. Rats chewed up a vacume line. Facing the engine, left side of the intake manifold near throttle body is a connection with two RED plastic vacume...

Same chewed red vacuum A/C damper line passenger side. splices to black line above the AC coil box. Removed battery and holder. Loosened A/C dryer mounts from inner fender. Removed fan motor. Interior passenger side lower right corner of the air input damper is the entry port for the black vacuum line. Removed clear rubber entry port weather plug/seal. Pulled the damaged black line out of the weather plug/seal. Ran a wire fish line from interior to exterior below left corner of the fan motor. Taped new line to fish tape and pulled new line into the cab. Reinserted new line into weather seal and reinstalled in reverese.5272c02f-9f6f-488e-a428-1e30a8342318.jpg719d1a3c-a72e-4a51-8201-9073ae2d31f3.jpgdbe7d6e5-21ea-4dd1-a9ec-2431f56b292c.jpgbffdab4a-8c8a-4aaa-9d1d-b9bf8c0e8fb3.jpg

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1 Answer

Cruise controll not working

Here is a posting from another site, I suggest read it...

I posted on Thursday about my 2001 Cherokee Sport - thought I would give an update on here that may help someone else.

After thinking about things alittle more -
Symptoms -
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Well, I had been researching and know that the air blend doors are vacuum controlled. I discovered that the Cruise Control is also vacuum controlled. This along with my check engine light "small vacuum leak", led me to believe that all are related.

As this is my wifes vehicle, I am not sure if all happened at the same time or not. As most know alot of women do not pay attention to anythingto have details to provide the husband in proper diagnosing - other than "it dont work - fix it"

I pulled it into the shop yesterday and just looked under the hood not knowing where to start. I mean, a vacuum leak doesn't flash a red light saying fix me... So after another cold beverage, I started pushing and pulling on vacuum lines, disconnecting and blowing in them. Nothing! Ok, another cold beverage ... I grabbed another line and was disconnecting a line from a t-fitting and the whole thing came loose... the end was broke - WaLa ! It was the vacuum line that runs inbetween the passenger fender wall and the battery behind the headlight. What had happened I assume is, because the tie that held it to the fender was broke, is when I changed the battery last year, the line was in the way and broke ? So I made a hose patch for it, got it all back to gether and checked it out - No more check engine light, got air in all directions!

So, I tell the wife to come out and I need her help. I told her to get in and start it and wait for my commands... She gets in (I set the ac to max), starts it and looks at me, I just stand back for a sec - finally she realizes she has ac blowing in her face ! Then I had to point out the engine light... I took a drive and the cruise now works as well !

Well, I got lucky ad found where my vacuum "leak" was and got it fixed.

Time spent researching: 2 hours
Time spent repairing: 30 minutes
Total cost:.25 cents (tape and piece of hose)

Hope helped.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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3 Answers

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