Question about 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Car didn't start

Took car to get battery tested and results said. Battery is good but the state of charge is low. Check for proper charging system output for excessive key off electrical draw. Alternator is good battery is good. drove car all day yesterday got in the car this morning and no power got a jump and stated right up...

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I have the same issue with my 1997 jeep grand cherokee ,and i am a mechanic ,and still do not have a clue

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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I have an 03 Chev malibu. I just put a new battery in it. She won't start without a boost.runs fine afterwards.if I let her sit for a bit I will need a boost again..please help


New battery could be faulty or alternator not working.
If nothing happens when you turn the key,to check battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
the link below explains a complete diagnosis,
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Mazda cx 7 battery problems


Check or have the battery's state of charge tested with a voltmeter. If the battery is low on charge, have it charged up. If all connections on battery and starter are clean and tight,, car should start. If you get it started and the alternator/battery light stays on with car running, there is a charging system malfunction. Have the alternator tested, in that case.

Jan 03, 2013 | 2010 Mazda CX-7

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88 Izusu Trooper II with 274000 miles Battery warning light comes on when first starting and running- after driving awhile, it goes off and starts charging- also during the warning period- the blower


Sounds like your battery isn't charging properly, first thing to check, is your alternator belt slipping, is it tight enough, if so does it need replacing?

Next the battery, if its over 2 years old it could be on its way out. Does it hold its charge?

Finally, Alternator, is it still providing a charge for the battery? Are all electrical connections good and clean?

Nov 07, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

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Clicking noise, battery light on, lights come on but dim out, how do i check the alternator ?


If you or a friend have a cheap volt meter.. set the dial to DC volts 20.. Place the red on positive side of battery and black on negative.. With the vehicle running you should have 13.5 or higher voltage...

If you do not have a voltmeter available, your local Autozone, Advance Auto.. etc.. will test it free of charge.. Good Luck

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1 Answer

2008 Grand Prix always started fine. This morning I turned the key and the starter clicked, the trunk opened, the horn beeped then the "battery system failure" light appeared. I opened the hood,...


Huh??? You are using the dome lamp to measure the output of the alternator on an engine that won't even start??? I would like to see how that trick works! YOUR BATTERY IS LOW- plain and simple! The REASON your battery is low is a whole other problem that needs to be figured out. It could be that the battery itself is bad and will not accept a charge, or it could be that your charging system has a problem and cannot properly charge the battery (alternator, cables, connections, voltage regulator, etc.).

Please note that the light is telling you battery SYSTEM failure. This means that the battery and its supporting system (A.K.A. Charging System) needs to be tested/diagnosed. Nobody online can tell you exactly what the CAUSE of the problem is without TESTING the battery and charging system.

Please also note that the vehicle we are talking about is equipped with a PassKey III (PK3) security system. If you keep fooling around with it while there is low battery voltage, the system can lock out the starter and fuel system where you will have to reprogram your computer to get it started.

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My 2005 durango want cran over


What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key,you need to check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested. If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.

Jun 25, 2011 | 2005 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Interior lights on but car wont start


STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS
What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key,"http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm"to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A "http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/cm10220.htm" that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.
If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit.
Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.
thanks,please rate the solution positively.

Nov 06, 2009 | 1985 Buick Century

1 Answer

Trun the key and get a clicking sound, car battery is good.


If the clicking sound that you describe is the solenoid cycling, I suggest that you LOAD test the battery.

Cycling happens when you do not have enough AMPS available to fire off the starter... goes like this: Enough battery to fire lights, etc, but when starter is engauged, not enough power to trun starter,....voltage drops, soleniod de energizes,...then with no load, it can re energize, and so it cycles like that...

Load test should reveal battery or connection issue. Do not parts replace, by just guessing, independently test each part. Especially the battery.

Here is why: say you have a low state of charge in the battery...Is it the battery or is the battery a victim? A test at this instance WOULD show battery has no capacity...BUT, when properly recharged (takes about 4 to 6 hours on a SHOP charger) it may not be the culprit..

Very easy to blow money needlessly, without independent component testing...

Taking the above example one step further: IF you had a battery at a low state of charge, (for example lights left on) ...At this time a charging system test would show the system is not charging to spec. BUT it is due to the low battery contition, due to serious discharge from leaving lights on.... Battery MUST be full charged and the system tested again...

You can see how easy it is to misdiagnose these types of issues...

Sep 20, 2009 | 1999 Lexus RX 300

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