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Re: why are my gauges pointing to the right
Try doing a hard reset!disconnect the positive and negative terminals from the batterytouch the 2 ends together, and hold them there for about 10 seconds. if that doesnt work, put the key to the on position, and then start the procedure again.
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that is a serious problem on any newer car,
its all electronic and FORT KNOX , tight.
The PCM runs that speedo and odemeter and are now not related
to the insides of the speedo head, like list 100 years. 1900 to now.
POWER TRAIN control MODULE, (old name ECU/ECM)
the PCM stores the miles and then sends them to the Cluster. via the comm bus. (sometimes the BCM is the middle man here) TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module)
the PCM also knows car speed, at all times, (VSS sensor)
and sends live speed data, full time to the head. so scan it.Not doing a scan is FAIL time. a NO WIN deal.
take a scan tool and scan it. see what errors you get.???????
Like VSS dead.? or comm bus errors?, or cluster module errors.?
that is first.
also on the newer cars 1998+? there is self test in the FSM.
the FSM is a book , (sold at dealers) and is factory service manual
and in said manual there are the self tests. (for sure)
only how , is a question !!!
you push buttons and key actions, then the CLUSTER does its a dance. it wags all gauges. etc.
if the speed dont wag the head is bad.
my 08 jeep, I can do this.
on older years, only the dealer scan tool DRB or? can only do that.
RTM , read the FSM or get it serviced.
there are only 2 choices, on cars now.
1 RTM or 2 get help.
You can not fix modern cars without this manual.
nor with out a scan tool. (I use Innova 3160 to cover jeeps)
my 08 FSM states: pg 1757 quote
Holding the odometer/trip odometer push button depressed while turning the ignition
switch from the OFF position to the ON position will initiate the CCN self-diagnostic actuator test.
now the full page
The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the
instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the
gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster
circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in
the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.
Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there
may still be a problem with the CAN or LIN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally
Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), the All-Wheel Drive Control Module
(AWDCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the compass module, the Sentry Key REmote Entry
Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM), or the inputs to one of these
electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate
1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the
ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD
units, and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED
indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a
VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the
calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic
mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the
vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
7. Go back to step 1 to repeat the test, if necessary.
Does the engine turn over at least? The gauges getting crazy points to a PCI data bus problem, then also the engine will crank, but not start. Could be one of the components connected to the bus. Also common is water ingress in a large connector on passenger side bulkhead, which causes the data bus to short out..
Unfortunately your fuel sending unit ground, power supply or the sending unit has failed.
The circuit is open some where. There is the possibility the gauge could be bad, but check the wiring circuit first. A volt/ohm meter will do the trick when you check the circuits at the tank.
All the modules are connected together to communicate with each other via the PCI bus. It is possible that one of the modules is pulling the bus down.Since the vehicle won't start it could be any one of the modules. It will be a process of elimination to find the faulty one by disconnecting them one at a time. Here are a few, powertrain control module (the one you replaced) Instrument cluster, overhead console, anti-lock brakes, airbag. Since the cluster unplugged wont read anymore, just try to start the vehicle to see if that was the one. Otherwise see if the odometer message of "no bus" goes away after each one is unplugged.
It seems like it may not have compression, where as all you need to do to test it is get an engine compression tester, which is a gaudge with a long extension on it to check your cyllender compression. remove all 4 spark plugs, have someone crank the engine over as you hold the gaudge in place. (it may make a pop noise ot a quick hiss if you don't hold down on the tester enough and sometimes when you release it) and if you have the new parts, and the plug is getting the spark, then it may be a head or heade gaskit issue. If you don't have a compression tester, you can usualy rent them at any advance auto parts or autozone. All you do is pay for the tool upfront, and when you return it you get all your money back.
Hope this helps!
ok it could be quite simple
lets look at wrong size fuse
example 15 and you need a 25 fuse
also if you did any work on vehicle its quite possible that you grounded something out wrong retrace your work and fix accordingly
bad cluster relay is another problem that would cause these problems