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Total electrical failure on 1998 Jeep Cherokee COuntry 2.5 td

This afternoon we went to our local 'play' spot for 4x4 offroaders to test our old girl (only got her last week!) We heard the starter not sounding kosher........ were still getting around to fixing that. After stalling, the starter dragged, stuttered (much like a dead battery) some sounds and lights came on - THEN smoke billowed from under the hood! I turned the ignition off and then she went dead........... now nothing comes on, no sounds, lights, electric windows - nothing!

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  • Daan Burger Nov 06, 2012

    We found a loose connection on the solonoid and took the starter to an auto elctrician. BUT after all of the drama it came to light that it was all caused by a DEAD 1 month old battery! Now waiting for the verdict on the starter which new apparently cost around R16 000 ($8 000) ??? seems a little harsh! Espescially because we only bought her a week ago ...... no mechanical insurance - yet!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 118 Answers

SOURCE: how to test ignition switch 1994 nissan

Check the harness for any missing wires, its the main bundle of wires under the dash. If all is in place then check the fuses to see if any needs to be replaced. If all are tested and working, check the relays located in the main engine compartment. If all are intact and working, check the ground wires that connect to the frame of the engine and body or directly to the negative of the battery. The main wires you need to see that are connected is on the alternator, starter, and battery.

Hope this hepls

Posted on May 06, 2012

Fjandr
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SOURCE: My 1995 saturn sl1 has no electricity. Battery tests good, I tried to start it this morning and heard one single 'click' sound then all power went dead. No horn, lights, etc. I checked the fus

The first thing I'd check would be the starter solenoid. I'm not familiar with the location on that particular model, but it'll look like this:


6_28_2012_2_41_07_am.jpeg
There will be a positive lead running from the battery to the starter solenoid.

Solenoids are usually fairly cheap (<$20), and because they die eventually in older vehicles it can be handy to have a replacement on-hand. As a result, buying one as a first step to diagnosing an electrical non-start issue really has no downside. If it fixes the problem, you know the cause. If it doesn't, you have a small, cheap replacement part you're almost guaranteed to need at some point in the future.

If, however, it is not the starter solenoid, you likely have (in order of ease of fixing) a locked-up starter (hit it hard with a hammer and attempt to start the vehicle again), a bad starter, or significant corrosion in the electrical leads running between your starter and the battery and/or solenoid.

The next step would be to remove the starter and take it to an auto parts store for testing. In the event it tests good, you'll want to test the resistance of the battery cables. Frequently there will be signs of corrosion somewhere along them in the form of bulging or split insulation and accumulations of white powder around and between the strands of copper inside the cable. Unfortunately, external signs of corrosion are not always present even in cases where significant corrosion resistance has built up in one or more electrical cables.

Posted on Jun 28, 2012

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