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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it seems you have a short in either one of the lights or interlock. all are connected to the same fuse. trace the wiring from the fuse box back to the component. Using a test light test in between the wires. check for any obvious breaks in the wiring.
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
I had similar problem with my 97 sierra... I only lost 1 light, then brake lights stayed on all the time... turns out the "t" connector for the trailer harness under rear bumper was rotted inside...unplugged the 2 parts of the harness and pluged them into each other with out the "T" harness.... everything works great... Hope it helps ya
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
SOURCE: Brake lights quit working.
if all fuses and bulbs are ok get to the brake switch and see ifits stiff or stuck, if it just has two wires on it you could join themtogether to see if the brake lights come on though obviuosly dont leave them joined.Good luck davelee
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
My best guess is a bad ground common to both headlights.
I think the 50 amp fuse is for your starting circuit, not the headlamps, which is a 15 or 20 amp fuse. Did you try both dim and bright settings?
Since you don't know which fuse is for what, just remove and replace each fuse one at a time. As you go, visually inspect each fuse and test for continuity with an ohmmeter, then use a pink pearl eraser to clean the wafer tips before replacing. Do this methodically one at a time and replace any bad fuses with THE EXACT SAME AMPERAGE RATING.
Now, if your fuses are clearly marked and you do have a 50amp fuse in your headlamp circuit then you need to put the correct amperage in ASAP. If you have a 50 amp in the headlight circuit the whole circuit could be fried before the fuse blows, which is why you NEVER replace a fuse with a higher rated amperage.
Once you've worked over the fuseblocks go to the headlamp circuit and follow the wires and plugs coming from the lamps and going to the fuse block. Look for ground connections and tighten those, especially those coming from the headlamp wiring harnesses. If your lamps are good, the fuses are good, the plug connections are clean and making good contact and your grounds are good then all thats left is your headlamp switch and wiring to and fro. If you don't know what the plugs are for no harm can come from cleaning and reconnecting them, so you can't go wrong if you just do one at a time in a methodical fashion.
I have an old S-10 and the headlamp switch is junk- I have to hit it with contact cleaner every once in a while because Houston air quality is poor and there is a lot of ozone- all this corrodes connections- fuse maintenance cures a lot of ills.
After the fuseblocks I'd start by checking the actual headlamps to make sure they are working (check each filament for continuity or put 12v to it to test) and clean the contacts.
Then you can work your way back to the fuseblock and switch checking your plugs and connections. Its all pretty straightforward, just be methodical and clean your plug connections as you go. No schematic needed- just a little patience.
One thing to think about if your headlamps are both blown is that your alternator may be overcharging, or the regulator isn't working properly and your headlamps are blown because they got hit with too high a voltage. Eventually this will sulfate the battery and cause an internal short- if it is bulging you can be sure this is happening. So get your alternator and regulator circuit checked if this is the case.
Good luck, If this fixed ya then please rate this solution
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
May want to look at replacing the wiper circuit board.It is located on the firewall adjacent to the wiper motor and has a some what square black cover with 3 torx screws and wireing harness pluged into the side.We had a truck that every time you washed it the wipers would stay on until it dryed out.You can try removing it and spaying it down with contact cleaner just watch the brease on the two contact tips.Well hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
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