No start. no spark, no fuel pump relay. eec relay energizes, fuel pump relay will not. fuses and relays are good. pcm has also been replaced.

OK, SO ENGINE IS DEAD, CRANKS BUT IS DEAD
AND now doing pump tests wrong. (as most do)
the relay has 4 pins.
to test the relay you must crank the dead engine.
and all fuses good first.
do not try to test the relay for the short prime pulse or go slowly mad. (2 man job and slow meter you will fail)
prime pulse 1second long, some even disable prime too cold outside, so I never trust the prime.
crank the engine.
2 man crank the dead engine (my guess what's up)
the contractor in the relay 2 pins ,one pin is 12vdc full time key on and 2nd one goes to 12vdc when relay energizes. (and pump gets 12vdc to it cranking.
the RELAY coil does that. in the relay.
the RELAy coil has 2 pins, 1 on this truck 4.3 is grounded hard, other coil is PCM
and is 12vdc from PCM, to coil 0v coil is dead.

that is how it works and how to test it correctly
learn the PCM cuts fuel 4 or more ways,


the facts are (have schematic up now)real.
ECM fuse B not blown or FP relay be dead.
PCM C2 pin 9 runs the relay coil
fuel pump not dead or its ground rusty.G402
Ok other coil pin on relay is grounded G102.
so he PCM sends 12vdc to the relay C2-B7
if not the relay will be dead.

fuse B is hot all the time so super easy to check
12vdc both ends of fuse is good for sure cranking
all fuses to PCM must be good.
battery voltage cranking is near 11v below 10v bad things happen.

if you scan the PCM it may tell you why it fails
why not scan any modern car first?

best on any dead engine, (but cranks fast)
all fuses good
scan it cranking
the check spark first not fuel fuel first
cant burn gasoline, with no spark.
the PCM(ecu) cuts fuel injectors if spark is detected by PCM bad.
the PCM cuts spark and fuel if crash SRS sensors tripped.
the PCM cuts fuel for other reasons even tps bad.
The pump is last. to test./ on any dead EFI engine
and do so cranking.
use a voltmeter to find it.
the pump is bad if 11vdc makes it to pump actual
cranking, and rail is 0psi.
if the FPR fails 2 ways stock closed PSI is 2 times normal and floods, engine if FPR is stuck open
PSI is 1/2 normal or less and engine dead or starves for fuel, weak engine and or idles a bit and stalls
see why I asked whats up? no told./
the real deal
my generic schemo. but is true.

Fuel pump relay , maybe . Inertia fuel shut off switch tripped .Does the vehicle have spark ? No signal from the Crankshaft position sensor ,the PCM - engine computer will not energize the fuel pump relay . Video's on youtube ,testing fuel pump electrical circuit from the relay base , where the relay plugs into .

No it doesn't . Has fuel pump relay controlled by the PCM - powertrain control module . The PCM needs to have inputs from crankshaft position sensor before it will energize the relay . Does the vehicle have spark at the sark plugs or coil's ? If there is spark the crank sensor is good . Would need to do fuel pump electrical circuit testing , like this
Testing Electric Fuel Pump Problems with Voltage Drop Test Look at the fuse / relay box under the hood in engine bay . Find fuel pump relay . Do you know about relays an how they work ? Videos on youtube .

Find another relay with an identical part number(maybe the fuel pump relay)& swap it in place of the suspect EEC relay.See if the buzzing quits.If it does,the EEC relay is bad.There might be a ac WOT cutout relay or fan relay with an identical part number that you can use instead of the fuel pump relay.The fuel pump relay & EEC relay will both have to be in place in order for the engine to start.A relay should click when you turn the key on,but it shouldn't make a buzzing noise.BTW-the EEC relay is energized when you turn the key on and then it supplies ignition on power to the computer,injectors,solenoids and fuel pump relay.Therefore, if the EEC relay is defective, these components are Not going to work.If you don't hear the fuel pump prime when the key is first turned on,that's a sign the EEC relay is bad.One of the injector wires should have battery voltage, if the EEC relay is powering up.If your vehicle doesn't have a matching relay to the EEC relay(except for the fuel pump relay)just pull the FP relay out and slide it into place of the suspect EEC relay for testing purposes.If the buzzing noise stops,then replace the relay because there's no way to test if the car will start without having both relays in place.

I see you replaced the fuel pump , spark plugs an wires , fuel fliter an checked ignition coil pack , Connections ,ASD relay . And everything checks OK ?????? How did you check these thing's ? Testing electrical circuits with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Fuel pressure testing the fuel pump before replacing ? Does the vehicle have spark ? How about hooking up a scan tool that can view engine sensor data .A bad coolant temp sensor could cause hard starting. Did you check the dark blue with yellow trace wire at the PCM connector 2 pin 67 . This is the PCM control side of the ASD relay . Do you know how a relay works ? how to test at the relay base ? where in plugs into.
How to test computer transistor driver without scan tool

Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts
VEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base

VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis

This should be in the owner's manual. I found the below on autozone.com, their repair help location:
An inertia switch is used as a safety device in the fuel system. The inertia switch is located in the cab, generally under the dashboard on the right side. It is designed to open the fuel pump power circuit in the event of a collision. The switch is reset by pushing each of 2 buttons on the switch simultaneously (some models use switches with only one reset button). The inertia switch should not be reset until the fuel system has been inspected for damage or leaks.
When the ignition switch is ON , it turns the EEC power relay ON . The EEC power relay provides power to the powertrain control module (PCM) and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump(s) is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flows through the fuel pump relay and inertia switch to the fuel pump(s). The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM.
When the ignition switch is turned ON , the fuel pump(s) will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position the PCM will shut the fuel pump(s) OFF after 1 second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump(s) operate the fuel pump(s) when the ignition switch is turn to START position to provide fuel while cranking.
After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump(s) unless the engine stops, drops below 120 rpm or the inertia switch is tripped.

I suggest to check underhood engine bay, according with this wiring diagram, look under EEC (Electronic Engine Control 1992) or PCM (Powertrain Contro Module 1996-1996)...



Fig. 22: Engine wiring - 1992-95 F-Series 7.5L (VIN G), 1996 F-Series 7.5L Federal (VIN G) and 1996 F-Series Pick-up 5.8L (VIN H over 8500 GVW) engines - ZOOM LINK DIAGRAM HERE (top left)


ALso, I suggest to check wiring circuit C185, located in THIS LINK DIAGRAM (top right)

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

your doing the tests wrong (best I can tell)
most cars for sure USA.
the pump only runs key on for 1 or 3 seconds,called the injector PRIMING state. (keyed on only not cranked) and then....
and for sure the same relay closes full time , cranking or running.
so on dead engine all techs know this and crank at the same time measure the 2 power pins to the pump.
in your case it fails. I bet but that is the only test here.
next is the relay, most have 4 pins as yours does.
.
the PCM energizes the relay pump if you crank the starter
I can only assume cranking works all good?????
these rules in the PCM prevents crash and burn, like Ms Heche(RIP). did.
crash ,engine stalls and pump goes off line and not a huge fire. from broken fuel lines, and is USA law too this. safety
on some cars fuel relay goes off one if spark is lost and for sure injectors are shut down spark seen dead. all this is pure PCM logic. deep inside..
all this is covered in ASE classes to techs. how all this works
it's home users (DIY guys that do no know this ) so here is my lil' hints. late.
it does not work like say a swimming pool pump.sorry
2.2L engine.
oops this 2.2 L puppy has oil pressure switch that kills the pump fast after a short run of he engine, saving it.

all fuses must be good, top PCM too, f9/10
and check engine light good must glow key on or PCM is dead

the ecu enables fuel pump relay first. then oil pressure good susains the fuel pump relay.
so PCM F6 dark green/white wire is what energizes the FP relay coil.
if pump is dead (voltage dead) to pump cranking , no longer than 10seonds(not overheating starter)
and fall fuses are good. all as in ALL.
F6 wire at ECU/PCM is check next or at FP relay.
check all pins of FP relay for correct voltage cranked (dead engine STARTER Good)
and be fully aware of all ways the PCU will shut down the FP relay
not saying I know them all , it is Firmware logic in the PCM.

better photo here.

https://imgur.com/a/rB4j125

There are 2 relays that run your fuel system. The first relay is the EEC relay(electronic engine control) and closes the fuel pump relay, so the fuel pump will work. It sounds like all other controls are working when you close the relay manually. I would replace the EEC relay, and this should repair you concern. Craig

there is no per se fuel relay. it has a ccrm. constant control relay module, its located near the air cleaner box. I presume this is for a no start condition.