With your enione knocking and the iol having been changed, This is a sign that you have a hidrolic lifter going bad. If you have any mechanical knowledge and the tools and the time you can fixs this yor self. But in most cases it is best to take your car to a trust worthy garage to fix this. I would do this soon and not drive the car to hard or far. If I am right and you are losing a lifter and you don't take care of it soon you will have a bigger more expencive problem as the lifter could go all together and the push rod that it moves could bend and slip out of possition anf cause something else to break.
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if theres a knock when you start it and it goes a way after it warms up you may be a little low on oil or cuz its a chevy it just needs to warm up before driving naturally a bigger engines gonna take longer for oil to move through all the parts especially in colder weather. maybe even check and see if it needs a valve adjustment.
knocks when cold ( Start ), then sort of diminish or disappears when warming up ???
Knocking goes faster when accelerating when cold ???
If Yes, then Piston knocking on the wall of the cylinder . The sound disappears as the engine is getting warmer it
dilates and the gap gets smaller.
If this just started,
1. Put quality oil & filter ( Mobile Full Synthetic Oil & Mobile Oil Filter or Purolator )
2. Do not put cleaning agents mixed with oil.
3. Personaly i've put "Restore" Engine Restorer & Lubricant in cars with more then 200 000 km and the results are amazing. But only "Restore". My Volvo is at close to 300 000 km, and it runs great. It's not a cleaning agent.
By experience if the knocking just started you can put an easy extra 100 000 km on the engine before a rebuilt. Quality Oil & let the engine warm up ( 3 mins ).
I dont think you can get a spark knock as i have never heard of that one BUT it could be a spark jumping from lead or plug to earth on engine (BUT THAT WOULD GIVE YOU A MISFIRE) OR it could be a tappet taping as its could be getting low in oil pressure OR the camshaft or rocker is worn a bit causing a slight bigger gap than usual so check it out and let me know Ron
Your problem unfortunately is bearing related. When any oil is cold (regardless of rating) it is heavier than hot. Therefore, cold, with marginal engine crankshaft bearings, you have less bleed off around the bearing faces. Once warmed up, the oil is thinner and prone to more bleed off, lowering pressure. Once pressure is low enough you will begin to hear lifter noise, later, bearing knock. If in the early stages of failure, replacing engine bearings is an option provided that only rod bearings are worn (can be generally done in car. If mains are involved, engine needs to be removed. Oil pump should be replaced during this repair...changing oil pump without repairing the bearings will not fix the problem.
No, there is no direct oil feed to the gudgeon pin. There is a cross drilling on the upper half of the bigend of the conrod that allows oil to be sprayed upwards at the right moment to both lubricate and cool the piston. It sounds more like you have piston slap (excessive piston to bore clearance) that will be more pronounced when the engine is cold. It's always a good idea to either let your engine warm up a little before driving, or just drive sedately until it has warmed up.
It could be small end related, but that noise is generally only noticable at that point where the load is least on the piston to conrod connection - ie: at the time where the piston pushing the conrod changes to the conrod pushing the piston, and vice-versa. Don't worry about an oil flush. Sometimes it's the carbon deposits that stop an engine making MORE rattles!
Is there any smoke when you first start it? what is happening is the valve seals are probably worn and letting the oil seep past them. when your engine is first started it has no oil or very little oil at the top of the engine, thus causing the knocking noise. could be more but this is a most likely answer. oh and is you haven't changed your oil every 3,000 miles you had beeter start doing it....
answer knocking sounds usually come from bottom of engine try a better quality and correct viscosity oil
Hi shwangod, you said it was a "heavy knock" and it began climbing a hill, could you give me a little more info, mileage, overall condition,2 or 4x4 am assuming this is a small block 350 cid, obviously there are different "knocks" for different problems, lifters do not knock they will click or rattle and are easy to adjust, a timing knock is the resultant effect of incorrect timing usually on the low side and is also easy to determine.A wrist pin knock associated with the piston boss pin can sound like a main bearing knock and is worse when the engine is cold and will subside as the engine warms up, the main bearing knock is the heavy knocking that doesnt quit and can lower oil pressure (operating) you can plastguage the mains to determine the amount of wear and if you are lucky you can roll in a set of bearings, when you drain the oil look for metallics, specifically brass, personally I am not a fan of upper or lower engine rebuilds but prefer to "Rebuild" the entire engine. I hope this helps you,good and let me know how you make out.