a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have the same problem with my harrier 3000cc car. We have changed the idling sensor, airflow sensor. air filter, we have had the throttle checked, spark plugs, wiring and nothing works. The smell you are getting could be from your gear box, have it checked out early and if the gear shift is noticeable then you will need a gearbox specialist to open it and change the clutch plates. Good luck.
pressure control (PC) solenoid 2 flows fluid to the 3-5-R clutch when
commanded OFF and exhausts fluid when commanded ON. The clutch PC
solenoid 2 regulates the transmission fluid pressure to the 3-5-R
clutch. The transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch 1 Opens (High)
under fluid pressure and closes (Low) when no pressure is present. The
transmission control module (TCM) calculates gear ratio based on data
from the automatic transmission input speed sensor (ISS) and the output
speed sensor (OSS). The TCM compares the known transmission gear ratio
to a calculated gear ratio for each commanded gear.
Circuit/System Verification: Operate
the vehicle to induce a shift from second to third gear while observing
TFP Switch 1. Perform this action 2 times. The TFP Switch 1 should
change states from Low to High. If the TFP Switch does not change states
and no other DTCs set, replace the control solenoid (w/body and TCM)
valve assembly. If any other DTCs set, diagnose that DTC first. Operate
the vehicle to obtain sixth gear 2 times and then check for DTCs other
than DTC P0736.If any other DTCs set, diagnose that DTC first. If no
other DTC sets, continue on with diagnostics. Operate the vehicle by
shifting from Park to Reverse, then while in reverse, operate the
vehicle with the calculated throttle position greater than 8% for 5
seconds, perform this maneuver a minimum of 3 times. If the DTC P0736
resets, go to Component Testing.
Component Testing: Perform the line test procedure. Inspect the check ball 5 for possible sticking or damage. If you found a concern with this check ball, repair the concern. Inspect
the shift select valve 3 for sticking or damage. If you found a concern
with the shift select valve 3, repair or replace the valve or valve
body. Inspect the R-1 (Low and Reverse clutch) assembly for wear or
damage. If you found a R-1 assembly concern, repair or replace the R-1
assembly as necessary.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your
feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if
you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
Check make sure the throttle cable is not binding inside..I would watch the throttle cable and with the vehicle off mash the throttle several times ,make sure its returning back to position..Also move the throttle under the hood and remove the duct work and make sure the butterfly valve inside the throttle body is not loose from the linkage outside
The pops and the disconnected vac(uum) line and the smell of fuel may al be related. The vacuum line to the auto transmission is there to tell that gear shift about the level of load that the engine is under. When you first start the car and accelerate really slowly notice how quickly the gear box shifts up through the gears. However if you accelerate hard the transmission holds each gear for a long time to take advantage of the high power delivered by the high engine speed. The vacuum line conveys to the transmission the level of vacuum in the inlet plenum manifold. When you accelerate slowly the throttle plates only opens a small amount and maintains a strong vacuum level. This vacuum permits the transmission to shift up through the gears quickly. If hard acceleration is demanded the throttle plate is fully open and there is almost no vacuum. The lack of vacuum on the transmission restricts gear shifts.
The vacuum lie usually makes connection with the transmission on the left (facing towards the front of the car) near the selector switch. The other end of this line must make connection with a port on the inlet manifold plenum or runner (on my car the port connection is actually very close to the injector on the inlet runner towards the back of the engine).
The open connection port is causing the other problems. With un-metered air entering the plenum (not passing through the throttle) the engine computer is struggling to keep the injection times long enough to keep the fuel to air mix balanced. This gives rise to very uneven running and perhaps the 'pops' and smell of fuel that you are experiencing.
Locate the connection and stick the vacuum line from the transmission on it. Make sure that there no further leaks compromising the inlet vacuum. Make sure the interior of your 'new' throttle is very clean. All of these things help and add up to a better running engine.
No not your U-joints. They usually make noise when you shift in to gear or put on the gas in gear or let off the gas in gear when dirving. They would make a clunking noise.
Have you checked the Transmission fluid level? A low fluid level may cause hesitations. The fluid should be a nice bright redish color. If it is brownish and yucky looking it is time to change the filter and fluid.
Remember that the level marks on the dip stick are measured in pints and not quarts like the oil is. You need to put the emergency brake on and stick it in neutral and start the engine to check auotmotic transmissions. If it is low then fill it to the full mark. If any fluid at all shows on the stick then unless it is burnt and brown it is probably not your problem. If none showed on the stick you might get lucky. Keep me informed and I could use a thumbs up for me time please. The Raz Shack!!!
check to see if your shift cable, (depending on how old your car is) is broken or not. the shift cable should be attach your throttle plate to your transmission. if your throttle plate lever has nobs that dont have cables connected to them that should be a worry too. pull on the metal of the cables (not the sleeve) to see if any are loose or pop out. replace those that are broken if need be.
If your car is a fly-by-wire (meaning no mechanical connection between your throttle and transmission) i really would not be able to know without being there. but you could check to see if you have any pinched, corroded, or broken wires coming off of your throttle plate or off of your transmission. if there is then that is probably your problem. keep me updated and i hope this helps! goodluck with it. Joe.
My friend it sounds very familiar to a TPS (throtle position sensor). Locate it by the throttle lever on the intake box.Place an ohmmeter on little brute while unplugged set the meter to 100 ohms and manually activate the throttle lever.Should read at 0 closed and 8 to 14 open . If not install a T P S unit.Cheap and readily available at most auto parts stores
Instead of a cable, most vehicle's speedometers are controlled by a speed sensor at the tail of the transmission. These do go bad and would cause your speedometer to malfunction. They are not like light bulbs which just die, these sensors will kick in and out irregularly.Secondly you have a thin cable that is connected to your throttle in addition to the throttle cable itself. This second cable is for the kick-down of your transmission. It is utilized when you make a sudden pass of another vehicle to shift down one gear. This cable becomes misaligned at times and will, in a sense, become shortened. Try releasing it from the throttle cam and see how your vehicle reacts then. If it shifts correctly than you need a new kick-down cable.
juan: there is a cable which comes from the transmission to the throttle linkage. This is called the TV (throttle valve) cable. This is designed to work in conjunction with the position of the throttle. I'm sure you heard the term "KICK DOWN SWITCH". Well this essentially is doing the same thing. If the cable is out of adjustment, it will have a tendency to want to downshift into 3rd.
Even though overdrive is electrically actuated, it can be disengaged by the throttle position.
There is also a coolant temp sensor which keeps the transmission from shifting into overdrive until the coolant temperature reaches a certain point. The sensor tells the ECM to tell the Solenoid it's ok to supply a ground to it.
Your overdrive switch provides a ground to actuate the overdrive solenoid. Make sure the switch has a solid ground serving the circuit.
The torque converter solenoid picks up it's ground from the ECM.
Both solenoids are served by the same power source which is a switched circuit through the ignition.
I hope I have shed some new light on your problem and given you some new direction in which to look. I hope I have helped you resolve your problem. If not, I'll be watching and will be ready to offer more help if needed. ..mybunkey