Question about 1999 Chevrolet Camaro

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Possibly a bad ecm on a 1999 Camaro V-6. Problems started over a month ago and are intermittent. Sometimes both Engine light and Reduced Engine Power come on, or just the Engine light, or neither. Codes are for TAC module, throttle sensor, cynlinder 4 misfire. One ignition coil was replaced and the code came up for cylinder 5 misfire plus previous throttle system codes.

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  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 05, 2012

    In Jan/Feb of this year the engine was rebuilt by a bunch of morons, liars, and crooks at an Oklahoma company called Blumenthals. It was constant screw up after screw up. The first time the engine was put back together and test driven, some kind of pin snapped and the engine was ruined again. They ordered another block, rebuilt it again, and I finally got my car back after 6 weeks. From day one something was always wrong. For the next 6 weeks the car continued to leak coolant. They had already fixed two leaks and finally discovered the elusive third hole. It turns out that one of the plastic elbows they had put on was "defective". Second defective part. This whole time there has been a mystery problem that no mechanic could figure out cuz a recently rebuilt engine should not be acting that way. Recently figured out that it was a misfire that was causing it. So from the time that Blumenthals "fixed" my engine it has been misfiring this whole time. It has been intermittent, so very time a mechanic was checking out the car it usually didn't happen. A few days ago, my mechanic discovered one of the ignition coils had corroded connectors. The car has 3 coils, 2 original, 3rd one was replaced by Blumenthals. So the ignition coil they put on only lasted 8 months. Another defective part? So because these jerks did shoddy work and used cheap, crappy parts my car is all kinds of screwed up. They are saying it has nothing to do with them and the GM of the company told me he will not honor my warranty if I go to the BBB and/or the attorney general...

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 05, 2012

    Yes, this is my car. I paid $3000 for the priviledge of driving a Camaro that runs like a total POS. Thanks Blumenthals!

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  • 1,007 Answers

You will have to clear all codes, and run the vehicle again. Some codes can come up after a rebuild as connectors are re-attached, and may not be legitimate present faults. So clear system and run and re-check codes again to be sure.

I will add that typically once one coil fails, it is a general indication that the other coils are also approaching the end of their life. This is not scientific, but most mechanics will tell you that this is often, albeit not always the case. It therefore may also be possible that you have another coil which has failed. Personally I always recommend to change all coils rather than just one, as I too understand that most customers just prefer to have the car repaired once, rather than having the inconvenience of frequent returns. This really depends on the garage though, and I will always advise customers of the situation, that one coil is only one fault, but may indicate the soon approaching presence of another fault with another coil.

Try re-testing after clearing of codes. You can also take off the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes or so, then reconnect it. This will effectively reset the vehicle's ECU on many models of vehicle and allow it to re-adjust to the new setup and driver's driving style i.e. power demand versus fuel consumption.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

  • 10 more comments 
  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 05, 2012

    Is it possible that the faulty coil could have caused a short in the ecm? And the engine also "shivers", which is someone else's symptom that I saw on here. With one of the possible causes listed as a voltage problem.

  • Jamie Alton
    Jamie Alton Nov 05, 2012

    A shiver could be any number of issues, but always remember that an engine requires three things to run, spark, fuel and air. As you have already had an issue with the spark, then I would suggest first following through on that diagnosis before going for something else.

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 06, 2012

    Yesterday I disconnected the battery for about an hour and a half to clear the codes. After re-connecting it and starting the car I noticed that it was running noticeably better. It even seems to have more power now. Except, the engine is making a constant tapping sound and occaisionally "shuddering" and it still feels like its missing, especially during accelaration. But the misfire (or whatever it is) is still only an intermittent problem. And once the car warms up the problems decrease in frequency and intensity. And yesterday Blumenthal's used their fancy, expensive diagnostic on the car and no codes came up. --Something they immediately tried to claim credit for until I interupted and informed them that I was the one who had cleared the codes.

  • Jamie Alton
    Jamie Alton Nov 06, 2012

    Again, it would seem as if the plugs, coils or any HT leads were the issue if you are pulling up no trouble codes at all. Have you tested the remaining coils? Pull them out and put a spare plug on the end of each HT lead or coil (if the coil plugs directly onto the plug). Do this with a cold engine, as coils and leads tend to show their issues the most when they are cold. They receive a heavier charge when cold, which can leak if the coil os worn out or the leads are tired and breaking down. Let us know how this turns out please. Good luck! You're doing a fine job so far! BTW, if this does cure your issue, then remember to disconnect the battery once again to reset once the issue has been resolved.

  • Jamie Alton
    Jamie Alton Nov 06, 2012

    Oops. Forgot to mention, when testing with a spare plug on the end of a lead or coil you need to earth the plug on the engine block or other metal component. Just lightly touch the plug's metal body or hooked terminal to this metal as you are cranking and observe the spark. You'll likely need someone to help turn the key while you hold the plug. There may be a slight change of a shock if either you are touching the plug's metal component or if the coil or HT is leaking, but this shock shouldn't be enough to hurt you, just shock you. If you are unsure, then use a pair of insulated pliers to grip the components you are holding.

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 08, 2012

    Problem Solved (kinda)

  • Jamie Alton
    Jamie Alton Nov 08, 2012

    Pray tell..

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 08, 2012

    Turns out it was the ecm. I got tired of Blumenthal's jerking me around and promising to get the part for me but making excuse after excuse about why they havent been visited by the ecm fairy... I went to a Camaro salvage yard and got a used one. After that one was put in, the car sounded so much but there was now a new problem.The speedometer was all they way up but the car wasn't really going that fast

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 08, 2012

    I had a REAL mechanic do a diagnostic and he told me the only code he got was 0704 for some kind of a clue is automatic. clutch sensor. Then he told me that the ecm was from a maual trans. mine So, basically the ecm needs to reprogramed by the dealership so I called back Blumenthal's and told them I had figured out a solution andto set it up w/ Chevy. So I'm going to the dealership in the morning. I guess we 'll she if that fixes the prob;em

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 09, 2012

    PROBLEM SOLVED

  • Rene Xaviere
    Rene Xaviere Nov 09, 2012

    Turns out my old ecm was bad. Not a hundred percent sure why exactly... More likely because of age, but still a small possibility it could have been damaged by a faulty ignition coil

  • Jamie Alton
    Jamie Alton Nov 09, 2012

    Good to hear! Congratulations!

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Mustgo
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SOURCE: 91 S10 rough idle, stalling ALDL problems

Make sure there is no vacuum leaks.


Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.

Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)

Low compression (170 psi + is OK)

Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.

====

For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.

Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.


SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE


This is a 20-30 minutes job.

Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.


Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.


Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.

You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.

Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.


Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.

Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.

Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.

DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.


PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.

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SOURCE: 1997 Blazer no-start

sounds like youve really done your home work all that comes to mind now is try a cam posistion sensor this would keep your car from starting as well if that is good you can aslo try a crank sensor. you will get all of the readings that you are getting and these sensors can still be bad.

Posted on Dec 24, 2009

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