Question about 1999 Chevrolet Camaro
You will have to clear all codes, and run the vehicle again. Some codes can come up after a rebuild as connectors are re-attached, and may not be legitimate present faults. So clear system and run and re-check codes again to be sure.
I will add that typically once one coil fails, it is a general indication that the other coils are also approaching the end of their life. This is not scientific, but most mechanics will tell you that this is often, albeit not always the case. It therefore may also be possible that you have another coil which has failed. Personally I always recommend to change all coils rather than just one, as I too understand that most customers just prefer to have the car repaired once, rather than having the inconvenience of frequent returns. This really depends on the garage though, and I will always advise customers of the situation, that one coil is only one fault, but may indicate the soon approaching presence of another fault with another coil.
Try re-testing after clearing of codes. You can also take off the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes or so, then reconnect it. This will effectively reset the vehicle's ECU on many models of vehicle and allow it to re-adjust to the new setup and driver's driving style i.e. power demand versus fuel consumption.
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure there is no vacuum leaks.
Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.
Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)
Low compression (170 psi + is OK)
Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.
For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.
Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.
SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE
This is a 20-30 minutes job.
Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.
Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.
Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.
You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.
Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.
Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.
Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.
Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.
DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.
PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
SOURCE: 1997 Blazer no-start
sounds like youve really done your home work all that comes to mind now is try a cam posistion sensor this would keep your car from starting as well if that is good you can aslo try a crank sensor. you will get all of the readings that you are getting and these sensors can still be bad.
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
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