No spark my car doesnt have any spark while cranking. just shutoff while i was driving. checked coil seem to be good also distributer seems to be ok. any suggestions ?

check out your crank sensor on the back of engine

all fuses good, using ohm meter tests in hand. or better
12v on both ends of fuse key on?
K12a, 16valves, DOHC, chain cam motor.)
well you are on track, no spark, that be real. huh>
the immo (slang for UK immobilizer) for other readers.
so not TDC codes, but that is not all there is, you can attach
a scan tool and see if you have CMP/CKP sigs, and RPM cranking.
crank for 5 seconds to see if these critical to spark parts are in fact working.
single distrib? (the 2 forms of k12a ) a= real japan engine not china.
new cap, new rotor, , no china rotors that mount backwards allowed.?
do you have schematic of your engine EFI?
you really need that, or finding problems can be very hard.
in usa we have 3 major sources here , all on line, to get that fast.
do you? have that in UK? do you have a suz, dealer? with shop man?
we have mitchells,alldata, and chiltons all on line for this.
we also have the for free in public libs here...
diagnosis. (ill assume its flooding) prevents fire and ring damage.
1: i cut the fuel pump by pulling FP relay.
2: then check spark,,if spark is bad to all 4 spark plugs, that's right 4.
then check spark directly at the COIL, some cars have hidden coil.and can be checked, ask.
if spark is bad at coil, HV terminal. then check for Ignitor drive
pulses. if good then coils is bad. (good input, bad output, bad coil)
if the ignitor is dead, check its input, if input bad , ECU is not
sending inputs. this can happen for only few reasons. in no order.
1: bad ecu
2: no cmp or ckp signals.
3: lost power to ECU, fuses,
IF car has dash tachometer, is it dead, cranking , no 300 rpm cranking?
scan too.
RPM dead. cranking.
no CMP /CKP errors cranking from ECU DTC, ERRORS ON SAME.?
That is how i do this, and never fail.
better is:
1: compression good?
2: spark good and timed
3: good fueling?
you fail #2 (lets work that)

Well there is no shutoff relay, but there is a fuel pump relay that powers the pump.
I would check it first. The computer grounds the relay for 3 seconds when you crank the engine to boost fuel pressure. Once the engine starts the pump is powered only if you have oil pressure.

I'm having a similar issue with my '97 Golf K2 with a 2.0 I checked the resistance to the crank sensor and it was almost 900ohms with the replacement one being 500 ohms. Changed it, didn't work.

Mine was running fine driving 70MPH on the highway and just shut off. Now it cranks, fuel pump runs and it seems to be getting fuel but still no spark. I have a coil/module on order and will try it tomorrow.

UPDATE

Replaced the coil. Coil sparks once when you first turn the key on, that's it. crank sensor has already been replaced yesterday.
Injectors seem to fire (I smell fuel if I crank it a while) but still no spark.
I have 12V to the coil and 12V when cranking.

I see tons of posts with this issue but no resolutions. Come on somebody has to have been here before....

UPDATE #2

I do NOT have an injector pulse or a pulsed signal to the coil. When I crank the car the oil pressure light blinks on and off (just noticed this not sure if it is relevant)

I do get a check engine light when I turn the key on and when cranking, thought this meant ECU was good?

Any other way to test the ECU?

Could the pick up in the distributor be bad? Doesn't the pick up signal the ECU to fire the coil and injectors, I thought the crank sensor was just a TDC reference point?

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Launch X431 Master

your transmission and spark plugs

you said your not getting spark..... double check that all of your plug wires are firmly attached ... you could possibly have a bad coil pack .

try changing the distributor cap and if that doesnt work then the coil in case the coil tower insulation is breaking down

The crank sensor

Doesnt this engine use a crank position sensor? mounted on timing chain cover.I would check that first

If u have a scan tool make sure the distributer is in sync. I sugest the u rent a DRB3 from chrysler at techauthurity.com. Adjust the the distributer and set the cam/crank sync close to 0 if the sync does not move the distributer and drive gear(camshaft) is damaged. It sound like a sync problem though let me know if this helps.