Question about 2003 Chevrolet Tracker
Yes there is a manual bleeder on your tracker. it is bleed the same way you do brakes.you need an other person to help you. you pump the clutch and after the 3rd pump hold the clutch and havethe other person open the bleeder screw with a 10 mm wrench. fluid will come out . do not let the clutch go until the person closes the bleeder screw .do it 3 times
Posted on Nov 04, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it has a hydraylic clutch and not a cable then this could just need bleeding or a new slave and maybe a master cylinder this can be checked easily on the gearbox where the clutch lever is there is a rod that goes into the slave cylinder or if it is a cable then that will be there in staed of the slave cylinder, get someone to push the clutch pedal down then check the movment hold that down and make sure the clutch lever travels about 1"stays out.if it does not then theres a fault, you can bleed this of air and if that does not work then then there is a fault in either of the cylinders.If there is this movment in the clutch arm and it does hold out then there is a fault in the clutch cover,bearing or damaged folk which may mean removal of the gearbox.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
SOURCE: New clutch doesn't feel right.
if your sure you have gotten all the air out and all the components ie. clutch, pressure plate ect look to be ok, check the frame work that the clutch pedal is secured from (under the dash).
when they break loose, it causes the pedal to travel to far before the clutch is released all the way.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
The clutch is a self adjusting hydraulic system check the clutch fluid res. It should be located on the firewall on the drivers side close to the brake booster. If it is full then you might check to see if the clutch slave cyl. is working if it is then you will have to drop the tranny and replace the clutch.
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.
If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.
I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.
Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
Have you got a hole in the floorboards????
It could be something loose in the clutch or just something ricochetting around the bell housing.
Posted on Feb 04, 2010
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