I am unable to remove the face plates of my egg shaped passage set (manufacturerer is unknown)
The handles come off easily using a 3mm allen key. There are no visable manufacturer makings it looks similar to a Weslock however, the Westlock set looks like the faceplate has a crimp it the side to remove the plate.
Perhaps the plates are threaded and unscrew although they are tight and turn only 1/8 before stopping.
Removing the passsage bolt, pegs are visable but not the full depth of the door.
I'm baffled by this one!
I finally freed up the paint on one side of the plate and managed to pull the cover plate off the door handle thus revealing the hidden screws. Boy, how embarassing!I finally freed up the paint on one side of the plate and managed to pull the cover plate off the door handle thus revealing the hidden screws. Boy, how embarassing!
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I think the socket is a dealer item only. I'm on a tool forum and none of the drivers have one. http://www.uktools.com/ sell a Koken 16mm and 14mm 10 point socket. SPC-69330 has a 16mm. I mailed a 10 point with a 13mm head to a tool company to ask if they will make a socket. You can try a damaged nut socket my Blue Point would go all the way on but may cut off the ends. Then you would go down to the next size. An air hammer if applied to the side will loosen the bolt.
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yes, remove the light lense above rear view mirror, i think left, in the vehicles toolkit , or somewhere should be a 4mm allen key in a handle shape, insert into the apeture and wind
Unclip it push it away from the radiator use an 8mm allen key to undo the viscous fan then you can remove the cowling easily ( i have welded a extension onto my 8mm allen key to make this easy) you will need to hold the water pump pulley while cracking off the 8mm center bolt
Hi Marion- just signed up, you're my first response. First, look at the handles to see what tools are needed, usually a philips head screwdriver and allen wrench. Next, unloosen the set screw enough with the allen wrench to remove the handle, keep set screw in handle, don't remove, next pull handle apart, next remove any hardware attached to door and you should be done. Hope this helps. Thanks, Joe
If console shift....On the shank of the shift lever were you can't see a horse shoe shape clip is pushed into the Handle towards the bottom of the shank portion. You need to pry it out keeping a magnet very close to this part. It can be lost easily. This clip is facing the front of the handle of course which is hard to see
If column shift the lever is sold with the knob only
take off plastic surrounds on steering column.look for small hole on outer ignition barrel casing.use a 3mm bit of wire or allen key to depress button in this hole. with key in ignition turn to on position and gently pull out barrel
remove plastic covers around column.once you can see ignition casing look for small hole around barrel casing.insert 3mm wire or small allen key into this hole and press down while turning key to on position pull gently out
2.4L Engine
NOTE
You may need DRB scan tool to perform the crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and inner splash shield
Accessory drive belts
Crankshaft damper
A/C compressor/alternator tensioner and pulley assembly
Lower front timing cover
Upper front timing cover
Right engine mount
Engine mount bracket
NOTE
This
is an interference engine. Do not rotate the crankshaft or the
camshafts after the timing belt has been removed. Damage to the valve
components may occur. Before removing the timing belt, always align the
timing marks.
Rotate
the crankshaft until the Top Dead Center (TDC) mark on the oil pump
housing aligns with the TDC mark on the camshaft sprocket (located on
the trailing edge of the tooth).
Loosen the timing belt tensioner lock bolt.
Insert
a 6mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of
the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate clockwise until there
is enough slack to remove the belt.
If necessary, remove the camshaft timing belt sprockets.
If necessary, remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket using removal tool No. 6793, or equivalent.
Place the tensioner into a soft-jawed vise to compress the tensioner.
After compressing the tensioner, insert a pin (a 5/64 in. Allen wrench will also work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.
Camshaft and crankshaft alignment marks—2.4L engine
To lock the timing belt tensioner, be sure to fully insert the smaller Allen wrench into the tensioner as shown—2.4L engine
Installation of the timing belt, notice the camshaft alignment— 2.4L (VIN B) engine
To install:
If necessary, use tool No. 6792, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft timing belt sprocket onto the crankshaft.
If
necessary, install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install
and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
Set
the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch
on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
Set the camshafts timing marks so the exhaust camshaft is 1/2 notch below intake camshaft sprocket. Make sure the arrows on both camshaft sprockets are facing up
Install
the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump
sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and around the tensioner
pulley.
Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to take up the belt slack.
Insert
a 6mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of
the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate counterclockwise until
there is no slack on the belt. The tensioner setting notch will start
to move clockwise. Watch the notch and continue rotating the top plate
counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring
tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving,
tighten the tensioner lock bolt to 220 inch lbs. (25 Nm). The setting
notch and spring tang should remain aligned after the lock nut is
tightened.
Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks.
Check
the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If not within the
window, reinsert the Allen wrench and into the hexagon opening located
on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate
counterclockwise until there is no slack on the belt. The tensioner
setting notch will start to move clockwise. Watch the notch and
continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting
notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to
prevent the top plate from moving, tighten the tensioner lock bolt to
220 inch lbs. (25 Nm). The setting notch and spring tang should remain
aligned after the lock nut is tightened.
Install the engine mount bracket.
Install the front timing belt covers.
Install the A/C compressor/alternator tensioner and pulley assembly.
Install the right engine mount.
Install the crankshaft damper
Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.
Install the right inner splash shield and wheel.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Perform the crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure using the DRB scan tool, or equivalent
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Timing belt removed, static timing was not set before removing timing belt.
[Set Static Timing: No.1 piston is brought up to TDC before removing timing belt.
Cam gear has a punchmark on face of gear, and this mark aligns with one single tooth. There is a matching punchmark on the Timing Belt Rear Upper Cover.
Facing the cam gear, the mark is to the upper right. There is an 'egg shape' of the timing belt upper rear cover, in this spot. This punchmark is in that 'egg shape', and is close to a bolt hole. The cam gear mark lines up with the Timing Belt Rear Upper Cover, mark.
The crankshaft gear has a punchmark on the face. It lines up with one single tooth. There is a corresponding punchmark on the lower right side. An alignment mark)
Should be a round punchmark on the face of the crankshaft gear. It lines up with a single tooth. Wipe the gear clean, use a little carb cleaner. (NO flames, or sparks nearby, well ventilated area)
Barring you cannot find the crankshaft mark, find the camshaft alignment marks, make sure they are aligned with the alignment, (Punchmark), on the Timing Upper Rear Cover.
Count the teeth in the timing belt. There should be 133 teeth on the belt.
There is 43 teeth in-between the timing mark of the camshaft, and the timing mark on the crankshaft.
(43 teeth in-between the Right Side Camshaft mark to crankshaft mark, 43 teeth in-between the Left Side Camshaft mark to crankshaft mark)
There should be 40 teeth in-between the two cam gears.
There is a clip just behind the plate holding the key lock you need to pull the clip out then the handle will come apart the clip is shaped like a u if you use a mirror underneath the lock on the inside of the door you will see it
Jack up o/s of car and support on stand
Remove front o/s wheel
remove bottom engine covers from inside o/s wheel arch and also bottom engine cover(plastic)
support engine with jack; remove yolk engine mount ( on belt side)
Put 1/2" extension drive into top of belt tensioner and pull toward engine - you can now put a 3mm drill bit or allen key into hole at side of tensioner to hold in position.
remove serpentine belt
from underneath car, use 8mm ( I think) allen key to remove centre bolt from belt tensioner
I finally freed up the paint on one side of the plate and managed to pull the cover plate off the door handle thus revealing the hidden screws. Boy, how embarassing!
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