2000 saturn LS1...ignition seems to be locked up. Battery functions, as well as the fuel pump, ignition coil, replaced the starter and crank sensor, and timing gears chain and water pump were all replaced by the dealership a year ago...still engine isnt turning over ... any ideas at all as to what i might try next?!

Check the ground connections on the ECU computer.

Check crankshaft and camshaft sensors, they could be bad.

Replace crank sensor.

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2001 L200 Cranks but won't start - SaturnFans.com Forums

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Nov 28, 2010 - 15 posts - ‎5 authors
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2000 Saturn LS1, Starting Defect - YouTube

? 1:37
www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBNU1IMqaRw

Aug 9, 2009 - Uploaded by farmerinchico
The anti theft system in the 2000 Saturn LS1, thinks you're trying to steal the car ... Once the security light is not flashing you canstart the car.

Probable Causes: Fuel Pump (P0230 to P0233) PCM (P0600 to P0606) Crank Sensor (P0355 to P0399) Fuel Pressure (P0190 to P0194) Chances are the Check Engine Light is not on, but you may find any of the following codes: P0230 to P0233 Fuel Pump codes P0600 to P0606 PCM related codes P0335 to P0339 Crank Sensor codes P0190 to P0194 Fuel Pressure Sensor codes No spark due to a bad crank position sensor, a faulty ignition module or PCM, a problem in the ignition circuit (ignition switch, antitheft system, wiring, etc.), a faulty park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition coil (only on engines with a single coil ignition), or wet plugs or plug wires (did it rain last night, did you just wash the engine?) A less common cause is a worn starter that draws so many amps while cranking the engine that there's not enough juice left to adequately power the ignition system and fuel injectors. Contributing factors might be a weak battery and/or loose or corroded battery cables. No fuel because of a dead fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay, blown fuel pump fuse, plugged fuel filter or line, or failed PCM injector driver circuit or injector power supply relay. Or, the fuel tank might be empty (don't believe what the gauge is telling you), or the fuel tank might contain contaminated fuel (water or too much alcohol) or the wrong type of fuel (whoops, somebody put in diesel instead of gasoline). No compression because the timing belt or chain is broken, the timing belt or chain is loose and jumped out of time, or the overhead camshaft has snapped.

Fuel system, replace filter, check fuel pressure and see if its acceptable, or just go ahead and replace the fuel pump so we can rule that out as the culprit.

check the timing chain if the engine turns over but want start. coil pack and crank sensor.

removing the battery lead to remove the starter motor will have energized the immobilizer
reset using a scan tool

I gave you more than you should need

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause.

b) We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive ).If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Remove the starter and have it bench tested to verify.
a) If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck

If it turns over but won't run, I would check to make sure you're getting fuel and spark. Pull a plug after turning the engine over a few times and if it smells like gas then you're getting fuel, if not then that's your problem. If you're getting fuel, you may not be getting spark. Hold the plug against the engine block and have someone turn the engine over a couple times. You should be able to see spark, but if not then there's your problem. Good luck!