My husband took all sparkplug wires off car at the same time, now he doesn't know where to reconnect each plug. can someone tell me where i can look up on computer we have a 2000 gmc jimmy., six cylinder
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If you got a CAR and not a truck, there are a few things you need to pay attention to when replacing spark plugs.
You need to make sure your spark plugs are the issue for whatever the problem is.
Take a 16mm SPARKPLUGS spanner (it's a special sort of tool that you buy in the shop, unless you have it, don't bother to try with anything else, or your could do some damage), unplug one of the cables attached to one of the sparkplugs (make sure you don't unplug more that one, so you won't mess the order), take your magic tool (sparkplug socket spanner or whatever it is called) fit it on top of the sparkplug, (listen for the clicking) and then twist it left until the sparkplug is out.
Have a look to your sparkplug, and see if there is any carbon on it (if it's black, it has to be replaced/sandpapered)
repeat the operation to the other (alledgedly 3) sparkplugs, naking sure you DO NOT MESS UP the order of the cables that connect to the sparkplugs.
If finally you've decided it is time to replace the sparkplugs, under NO circumstances, replace less than ALL of them. (unless you replace them on the car of someone you don't like)
Those are as easy as they come these days.
Mark each spark plug wire with a piece of tape with the cylinder # written on it, so as not to mix up the wires.
Remove each spark plug wire by firmly grasping the wire by the boot (do not pull on the wire) and twist it back and forth a few times while pulling slowly. It should pop off without a great deal of effort. If it is seized and it breaks, you will have to replace the wire, or at the very least replace the terminals (if you can get some).
Use an air hose and blow around the base of each spark plug to dislodge any loose dirt that could fall into the cylinders (not absolutely necessary, but a good idea).
Remove each spark plug with a spark plug socket and extension and ratchet (I forget which size socket, it's either 5/8 or 13/16).
Check the gaps of each new spark plug (typically around 0.035 in).
re-install each new spark plug by hand (do not cross-thread them) and once you have ensured that the plug is threaded in properly, tighten the plug until it seats, and then tighten an additional 1/16 of a turn. Repeat this for the remaining plugs.
Re-install wires to the corresponding spark plugs.
If you remove the a plug wire and the spark has no where to go, it will find the weakest spot. Sounds like the spark found a weak spot in your distributor, it either found a ground path through the rotor or it fried the coil, in any case its going to be something inside the distributor. By the way pulling the wires with the engine running does not tell you the condition of the spark plugs it only tell you if the cylinders are contributing any power.
This you do one plug at a time, remove the sparkplug wire from plug next use a plug socket to remove the sparkplug,then make sure to gap the new plugs and install new sparkplugs, its not a hard job just do one at a time so not tom cross any of the wires. hope this helps.
To change the plugs, do one at a time so not to mix up the sparkplug wires, remove plug wire from a plug, use sparkplug socket to remove the sparkplug make sure to gap new plugs, ask parts store for the gap setting they will give it to you when plugs are bought, the plug gapper is about $2.00. and that about it, the rear plugs are a little harder to get to but the same way to remove, some buicks came with metal heat sheild over the sparkplug boot in the rear cylinders make sure to reuse, you will know if you have them they will slide right off old boot.
to replace spark plugs remove spark plug wire boots. use special sparkplug socket or else you can break the sparkplug. to remove turn ratchet counterclockwise remove all four one at a time, make sure that the sparkplug gap is correct. most plugs come pregapped...read the box it will tell.you. do not overtigheten plug once it has fully seated give it a good snug....if you do one at a time you dont need to mark the spark plug wires. if you mix up the wires your car will back fire which could cause severe internal damage.
Check your spark plugs and wires yourself. Remove one sparkplug at a time from the engine block, plug the wire back on, place the sparkplug on the engine or vehicle body so that the outer thread of the sparkplug would touch the body, or engine (GND) you can secure it with a cellotape or so. Turn the ignition key to the START position and when starter is spinning wach for high voltage sparks appearing between the body,engine or gasket and the tiny black end of the sparkplug called electrode. If there's a sparks, than it's fine, othervise try to get one working sparkplug and to retest this. If now it works then your sparkplugs needs to be replaced. Othervise check the resistance of the high voltage coil primary windings. this should be something between 0.2 and 10 ohms, when coil is disconnected from vehicles wiring. I just do nts remember the exact figure. If multimeter doesn't show anything, replace the coil, otherwise check if the supply current is flowing to the coil plug when IGN is ON. If it's fine then check the COM line at the same plug, using analog muldimeter is the easiest and not harmfull way to do this. If COM isn't comming You might need to go deeper into ECU, or even to replace it. If COM is fine then it would identfy that coil itself is faulty.
The best way to check for spark is to remove a sparkplug wire from one of the sparkplugs on you engine and then take one of the spark plugs that you replaced and connect it to that plug wire. Make sure the plug is touching bare metal and have someone crank your engine. You should see a spark at the end of the plug. As far as a stuck injector you need to see if your getting spark first. Let me know what you find.