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Melted wires on inverter

Had inverter connected to leisure battery, and was only running a laptop, when I noticed the wires connecting the inverter to the battery start melting. I switched off the inverter as quick as I could, but after replacing the leads it no lower switches on...Is it Dead? VERY expensive brand..

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You may have this posted in the wrong product category. Please select another category appropriate to the problem and re-post the problem so the correct expert will see and respond to the question..
This is for car and truck problems related to Factory Installed Systems not add on aftermarket systems.
This post can't be removed or moved, please re-post the question in the correct product category. Thanks

Posted on Nov 03, 2012


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SOURCE: Front heater fan control switch gets hot and melts. Why?

this is an easy one, the blower motor is drawing to much current, this happens as they wear out, replace the blower motor aNd all will be well in chevy land.

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SOURCE: No tail or parking lights

Problem is they keep changing wire colours...My 93 has circuts that aren't in any manual I've seen yet!
Have you tested the bulb sockets for power & ground? Also make sure all wires on the melted connector are clean enough to make good contact. (break it apart if you need to and connect each wire to each terminals...just keep a diagram of it for later.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a direct short which drains both batteries in less than 1h

Remove positive cable from battery & connect a 12 volt test light between battery terminal & battery post. Anytime light is on, you have a draw on battery. Don't forget your stereo will cause a small draw all the time. Light will dictate how much draw, if it's bright, lots, if dim, not too much. If it' bright, and you pull a fuse & it dims down, or goes out, you've found circuit with fair bit of draw. If worse comes to worse, I always find it easier to make sure I know where they all go back to, then pull them all & start putting back one at a time, light will tell you where you have a draw, mark it down, pull it back out & try another, until you found all sources of draw, and recorded the brightest one(s) Now go from there with info you have. If you put one in & no light, you can leave it in. Good luck, at least it will isolate the culprit(s).

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

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SOURCE: melted headlight switch socket, 1990 dodge truck

Due to the problems you have described, especially the discoloration on the switch terminals, I would look at the voltage regulator. It should be mounted against the firewall under the passenger side wiper area. Take the truck to an autoparts store and have them check the charging system output. Most parts stores will check the charging system output for free. See if the output is high or fluctuating. If it is high it would indicate a problem with the voltage regulator or alternator. I am curious as to what is obviously getting the switch hot enough to eventually do it in. The root of the problem as it were! lol Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

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SOURCE: The fuse box under the hood has a wire that runs

take out the light

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

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Need the wiring diagram for the aux circuit feeding caravan fridge power while the engine is running.

Understanding Caravan and Tow CarUnderstanding Caravan and Tow CarIn the beginning.... The first and oldest electrical system on caravans, that was installed way back when most caravan's were no more than small garden sheds on wheels were the rear lights that replicated the rear lights of the towing vehicle, usually no more than two side lights and two brake lights.
Illumination for inside the caravan was provided by gas lights fed from a small gas cylinder usually clamped to the "A" frame of the caravan. It wasn't long before the lighting system needed to be upgraded, as direction indicators became mandatory on cars, additional wiring was needed to replicate indicators on the rear of the caravan. Skip forward a few years and a rear fog light became mandatory, so a further upgrade was made to the lighting electrical system to allow the rear fog light to be installed. The wiring for these lights was connected through a 7 pin plug to the car that is commonly known as a "12N" connection.Sometime in between the indicators and rear fog light changes, people decided they wanted to replace the gas lights inside the caravan with 12 volt lights that could be run from the car battery. People often used old car spotlights or other 12 volt lights that were found in cars of the time as interior lights and these soon drained the car battery, so an "upgrade" was to install a second battery in the caravan that could be used to provide power for lighting. These were usually old car batteries. It would be another few years before the dedicated "leisure battery" came along. Originally, you would have to take this battery out of the caravan and charge it at home using a standard car battery charger. Again, in a continual developing process, someone came up with the idea of being able to charge the second battery in the caravan from the tow car while driving along the road, or when on site, being able to run the engine of the car and using a long lead be able to plug the caravan into the car to charge the battery for the next nights use of the lights, So a second "supplemental" electrical system was born and the "12S" (S for supplemental as to differentiate it from the 12N or Normal) connection came into being.he 12 Volt systems
The 12 volt systems are split into two. The first, and as we have seen, the oldest is the caravan road lights, that is to say the lights that are required by law to have on all trailers. These lights consist of "tail" or "rear" lights - rear side lights (red), brake lights (red), direction indicator lights (orange), reversing lights (white) and fog lights (red). Due to the size of a caravan front marker lights (white) are required and from 2013 side marker lights (orange) on longer caravans.
12N & 12S Vehicle Wiring
These lights are connected to the car via a 7 pin "12N" type plug or by a more modern "continental" style 13 pin plug. The road lights are usually a complete system with all the supply and earth connections being separate from any other electrical system on the caravan. One of the most common faults with road lights is problems associated with the earth lead, but more of that later.
The only road lights that are not connected via the 12N connection are the caravan's reversing lights. The original 7 pin socket when it was developed was thought to have enough connections for everything anyone could ever want. Unfortunately as the years progressed, the number of "spare" connection on this plug diminished, to the point where there was no spare connection for the reversing lights. However, with the advent of the 12S, this was taken care of.The second 12 volt system is the supplemental system. This is designed so that when towing, you can charge the caravan's leisure battery, power the fridge and in some cases power an electrical brake system. The design of the supplemental system has to take into account a number of things:-
• It must be able to charge the caravan's leisure battery only when the car battery is fully charged and the engine is running.
• It must be able to power the caravan's fridge - but not allow the fridge to flatten the car battery if the engine is not running.
• It must be able to power the internal 12 volt electrical system of the caravan, but turn everything off when the engine is running.
• It must not interfere with the correct operation of the road lights of the caravan or towing vehicle.
OK, so lets look at the first one -
"It must be able to charge the caravan's leisure battery only when the car battery is fully charged and the engine is running"roblems with this type of connection. If the car battery is flat and you try to start the car, a heavy current will be drawn from the caravan's leisure battery and would cause the caravan wiring to over heat and possibly cause a fire. It would also damage the plug and socket connecting the caravan's wiring to the car, as they are not designed to take the high currents involved in starting a car engine. So how can we do this safely?

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you should have voltage on red when engine running? might be faulty inverter or altenator check connections or put a bulb tester on the altenator and see if it lights up ?????

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First disconnect the negative cable from the battery and leave it disconnected until the final step.

Dicsonnect the positive battery terminal, clean the battery and cable terminal with a wire brush or light sand paper. Apply some dieletric grease or light coat of chasis grease and reconnect the cable to the battery. Follow the positive cable and do the same procedure to all connections down to the starter. Along this route you may notice a smaller wire connected enroute with a fusable link or fuse. Make sure to check these for loosness and or melted wire coating this can be a sign of a loose connection and your problem.

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Hope that helped.
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