Question about GMC Cars & Trucks
New starter new battery will not crank just clunk from starter. 4.3l 1500 2wd
Clunk or click? A click would be the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter. Recheck battery and starter connections for tightness. If they are good, it is possible you got a defective starter and should have it tested. If it is good, make sure you have power at the solenoid wire (small purple wire, I think) when key is held in the crank position.
Aside from that, are your battery cables in good condition?
Posted on Nov 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No crank, no start, new battery
I've ha the same problem on my 95 civic. Changed the starter, a relay, checked the ignition switch, distributor... and found it was a faulty ground from engine to engine compartment. To check this last solution, simply attach a wire big enough between the engine and chassis and turn the ignition key. If the car starts, you've found your problem!
Hope this can help.
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
I had the same problem with my 2000 GMC Safari two years ago....drove me CRAZY!
Sometimes it would start right up...other times it just would crank and not start.
It turned out to be a cracked coil....I found it by using a spray bottle with water in it, and "misting" the engine, at night....with the engine running. (On a night when it DID start!)
It took a while, but finally the hairline crack let in some water and the electrical short showed by a spark coming out of the coil.
I replaced the coil with a new one, and it has never "not started" since.
Evidently the coil cover gets brittle and develops small, hairline cracks due to heat from the engine.
Oh...by the way....I tested the coil it showed that it was fine!....but it took the "misting" at night...in the dark...to find the spark "leaking" out.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Just maybe it's mechanical.Internal to the steering column is an activator rod that manually makes the contact in the ignition switch.It's the cast piece that is molded to the activator rod that breaks.Two things you can do;tilt the steering wheel all the way up and try again to start(the cast piece spreads before it breaks,by tilting you gain a little extra throw on the switch).This will only work a couple times before complete failure of the casting.The other is to move the cover that's just below the tilt lever enough to get to the rod and move it with a pliers to start.If it's mechanical these things do work,I ran my truck with a vice grip for a couple weeks until I could get the parts for the repair,but replacing the broken part is smarter and won't scratch up your column like mine.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
You mean wont CRANK or CRANKS but WONT RUN???? 4 cyl or V6 auto or manual trans????????? The 8th VIN digit would be most helpful as there are 4 different engines for that car. Its really cheaper to check items before you replace them. The starter should have a smaller BLACK wire that should have power on it when trying to crank the car. You say it wont crank, then check the neutral switch on the trans. Try putting it in neutral to start it. If it has a manual trans, the clutch switch on the pedal may be bad. There is a starter relay in the fuse box under the hood that powers the starter, does it click if you turn the key to start? if it does then the relay is at least trying to work, but doenst mean the contacts inside are good, If it does not click, then the neutral switch may be bad.Check the BLACK/YELLOW wire at the trans switch, if it has power on it, the switch may be bad, ground that (Black/Yellow)wire and see if it cranks. I dont know if there are any other relays in the fuse box that you can swap for the starter relay for test purposes.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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