Question about 2005 Toyota Highlander
Chirping sound from front wheels when turning left at low speed. Chirping sound stops as break is applied
Check the brake rotor backing plate to see if it is rubbing against the brake rotor, check the brake pad condition at the same time, it may be the low brake pad sensors that you are hearing.
Posted on Nov 03, 2012
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1) Take car to non dealer shops willing to give FREE opinion
2) Not likely you have a shock in Driver Front wheel, more likely a strut. Not likely strut needs to be replaced, but strut has a STRUT MOUNT (3 bolts of which can be seen when opening your hood) below this it is connected to STRUT BEARING which below it connects to UPPER SEAT OF STRUT or SPRING INSULATOR, that if loose will rattle. Usually, shops will not tighten, because to tighten is same labor as replace the parts. (Since you already dropped $1000 on ToyotaDealer, ask them to tighten FOR FREE since rattle is still there.)
3) There is a part called a "link," connects strut to stablizer bar, that if bushings are bad will rattle.
4) If stabilizer bar bushing(s) bad, will rattle early on but eventually clunking
5) Bad ball joint or tie rod can rattle as well
Never permit any shop to do expensive work on your car w/o first getting a second opinion somewhere else first. Do not tell second shop that you are there for a second opinion.
Shaking steering wheel at highway speed, no braking
1) Bad tire in front, bad tires in front, verify inflation of tires
2) Wheel alignment may be out
3) Front suspension parts (mentioned several above)
Highway speed to suddenly braking shakes steering wheel
1) Front brake rotors need to be inspected for warping
2) Test calipers on empty road at 40 mph, going straight on very LEVEL ROAD, hit brake pedal SOMEWHAT hard while barely touching steering wheel. If car jerks to one side, instead of braking straight on, you may have a caliper, ABS, or brake fluid pressure regulator off.
3) If brake rotors are warped, may as well replace front brake pads at same moment. Use ceramic.
4) When you drive on VERY LEVEL road on highway, steering wheel must be centered, let go lightly of steering wheel. Did car stay in middle of lane? No? Get a 4-wheel alignment.
Posted on Sep 16, 2010
SOURCE: 1995 toyota land cruiser
Your front "ball & socket" joints are in dire need of lubrication. You need to do this:
Take the tires off, and look for a fill plug behind the hub, on the housing, above the ball & socket. Remove the plug, and fill it up with 80-90 gear oil. Replace the plug, do the other side.
What you have is a dry joint, and the clicking noise is coming from the u-joint (actually called a "Rzeppa" joint), inside the ball/socket/hub...a good lubrication will eliminate your condition. Hope this answers your question, please feel free to comment back with any other questions...And, thanks for choosing FixYa.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
Turn vehicle on, with foot on brake put vehicle in NEUTRAL. Still holding brakes move 4x4 switch to 4 wheel drive, it should engage. The ECT snow is just s feather that make the transmission take off in 2nd gear so its not a fast take off and you wouldn't skid. Good Luck
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
you might have a froze caliper piston, he is asking for all of that because whenever you change a caliper out you dont just want to change the caliper but do the brake job while you are there because more than likely the rest of your brakes are worn as well and if you just do the caliper you will damage you brakes more because of uneven wear sometimes a caliper gets locked up from extreme wear on pads past limit, he is actually saving you money in the long run. now as far as price it doesnt take much to change a caliper out, if you pinch off the line hooking directly to that caliper and unhook it along with the two bolts, all you have to do is put the new one in and pump the brakes back up and then bleed them to ensure all air is out of brake system, and depending on make and model, bleed them starting from furthest wheel from master cylinder....in other words you should be able to find a better price cheaper considering they want to replace the rotors instead of resurfacing them so that is alot less time to just replace them it is merily just parts changing, I hope i could help
Posted on May 14, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 17, 2016 | 2003 Buick LeSabre
Nov 03, 2015 | Toyota Cars & Trucks
Aug 07, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 18, 2014 | Dodge Cars & Trucks
Feb 06, 2011 | 2007 Mazda MAZDA6
Jul 03, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Mar 09, 2010 | 2005 Jeep Wrangler
Sep 26, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Sep 21, 2009 | 2006 Toyota Highlander
Jul 31, 2009 | 2004 Toyota Solara
1,537 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: