Question about 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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Separating the drive axle from tranny on a 94 chevy cavalier

I am trying to separate the drive axle from the spline gear on the tranny but it wont pull off, I tried prying it with a screw driver but that didn't pop it loose either. How much pressure can i put on this to get it off and am I going to damage the spline gear. Also, is the entire thing going to come out of the tranny or is it suppossed to just pop off the outer portion, the replacement part I have looks like its just suppossed to slide onto the spline gear coming out of the tranny.

need advice on the best way to get this off without damaging things, have to get this done today. thanks

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  • John Jon May 11, 2010

    the inner cv joint your working spleen with a ring half way on the saft ??? looks like a loop ring! email me regeetone@hotmail.com

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Put the pry bar between the drive axel and trasm its only a c clip holding it in place **** the pry bar give it a few wack it gonna come off you wont break nothing sometime those c clip are a pain

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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  • Expert
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Hi, you need to apply some presure to it but it will come out ,try a pry bar , C1

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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How do you pull a 1979 gmc jimmy 4x4 rear right axle


QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.

Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)



see this vdio

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I am trying to remove the drivers side axle of a 2001 mazda protege, is there a locking mechanism? How do I best go about getting it out of the transmission?


It has a ring on it that sits in an indent in the tranny. Push the axle in and then **** it straight out. Don't pry, as you could damage the splines.

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I'm trying to replace my ball joints on my 1997 ford ranger and was wondering how I remove the axle shafts? Do I have to remove the whole front end?


No, but you might have to separate the tie rod ends as well as the lower ball joints. With the axle nut off, have someone use a long pry bar between the a-frame and the car frame or fender skirt to pull the a-frame down and separate the lower ball joint. Then swing the hub away from the truck until it clears the a-frame. Next, pull the axle from the hub and finally pull it straight out of the tranny. You might need a drip pan in case the tranny leaks with the axle out.

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Try lining up the splines on the axle with the tranny, then tap the end of the axle (goes thru the wheel hub) with a brass hammer. Should be tight, but dont hit it hard enough to damage the axle shaft. If it still wont go in, look at the splines on the transaxle, they may be damaged.

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It's easier to put in a rebuilt axle. The steps are as follows
  1. Remove the brake caliper, pads, and rotor.
  2. Remove the axle nut.
  3. Remove the lower ball joint retaining bolt and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  4. Push the splined axle out of the knuckle.
  5. Then, use a pry bar to pop the axle shaft out of the transmission. Insert the new axle shaft and give it a tap with a hammer to pop the "C" clip into position.
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Make sure you only do one side at a time. If you pull both axles, the side gears in the transmission can slip out of place, causing a real headache.

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1 Answer

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take off the wheel.
remove the nut at the end of the axle.36mm socket or so.
on the lower control arm there is a castle nut with a cotter pin.take out the pin and remove the castle nut.
then with a pry bar,put pressure on the lower control arm so the ball joint is free out of the lower control arm. pull on and swing away the hub assembly until it clears the spline from the outer axle.swing the hub out of the way so the axle can be pulled out of the transmission.
tie it out of the way with a tie down cord.
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there is a spring on the end of the inner spline,some are quite tight on there.
remove the axle.

installation is reverse of the above.
first the shaft is put into the transmission, then you will have to hammer it in until it "sets". use a soft material like wood on the end of the axle .do not hit the spline directly with a hammer,it will damage the splines!
make sure not to damage the transmission seal where the drive shaft goes into.you will lose a little transmission fluid and will have to top it up.once the shaft is installed,turn it and make sure it meshes proper inside the transmission. then move the hub into place over the driveshaft.tighten the axle shaft to vw torque spec.
install the lower ball joint into the control arm and tighten the castle nut to vw torque spec.and install a new cotter pin.
install the wheel nuts and torque to spec.
alot of heroes out there use a straight impact gun and that can bend rims,rotors and cause other problems.TORQUE them.they are 80lb ft for a reason, not 300 lb/ft like an air gun.a torque extension bar is perfect and an 80 lb stick is about 20 dollars.
it takes a special stick to measure the vw tranny fluid if it is an automatic.a dealer will be able to check it unless you want the vw special tool for that.
tools needed will be an impact gun,axle nut socket,torque wrench,socket set with 1/2 inch drive,36"pry bar,jack stands,and a trouble light .
it takes about half an hour to do if you do alot of them.
go slow do it right and it may take a couple hours,but you will feel good about it.

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