Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
most likely needs an encoder motor. That is the fancy term for the motor that switches the t_case through the gears. The flashing lights indicate a code had been stored and you should have gotten it serviced then before further damage. as long as you dont drive it in 4 wheel you should still be ok
Posted on May 10, 2009
Worn side bearings is where the noise is coming from and might as well do both sides, I used replace them in about 2-4 hours, depending on where Murphy happened to be. Disconnect both side inner CV joint, front prop shaft and the 4X4 actuator line. If you want to drop the front pumpken. Not sure if you have enough room if you want to change the bearing without removing the pumpken from the frame. You should see when you disconnect the CV shaft.
The front diffs are toys compared to the rear, if you use auto4wd too much there are bearings in your tranfer case that are similar to the side bearings in the front diff. In both appearance and durability and soon you'll replace those too.
Good luck and keep me posted.
Posted on May 26, 2009
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