Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)
Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)
using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)
with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block
wiggle pump it should come straight off
clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry
silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump
apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )
use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight
use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry
Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system
there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods
loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough
crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
if so tighten #8 injector up
Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle
trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps
use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter
the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals
now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Basically what he does is pressurizes the tank and all the lines up to the charcoal cannister.
Anywhere from the hose from the filler neck to the tank could be cracks or loose clamps.
The top of the tank has a seal for the fuel pump and rollover valves. These are rubber and could be leaking.
Under the hood you will see the charcoal cannister inbetween the radiator and engine on the passenger side. The hose could be unplugged or cracks. Or the cannister may of failed. The cannister is unseviceable
except for the valve thats on it if it has one.
You could spend a couple hours trying to find the problem especially if it on top of the tank.
What the shop will do is pressurize the tank again and with the smog machine sniffer they can stick it where you can't access to see if it can smell fumes.
Takes a shop 10 minutes to find the area if you want to know.
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, every time I smog my vehicles I learn a bit more. This was helpful. "
there could be 2. one is in the tank,this one is there for sure. the other is in the frame rail ahead of the switching valve,if you have 2 tanks.Otherwise look for a cylinder with fuel lines and 2 wires.the fittings on inline fuel pump might take a special tool,they will look like a bell.that tool can be bought at parts store, should be under $15.
Posted on Jul 13, 2012
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