The front pass. side wheel bearings went out and I can't get to them,I took nut off spindel and used a puller but it want come off spindel. (I'm refering to the peice the tire mounts to.) Do I need to disconnect at the cv joint?? Just found out its a 1990 model. Ford Escort.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I had to do my 2001 Yukon XL and it took about 4 hours of beating on a chisel with a short handled 10 pound sledge hammer to seperate the bearing from the hub. Even applying heat with a propane torch didn't help, if you had access to a acetylene torch it probably would have went quicker. I wanted to give up 5 times but just took a rest and went back at it.
Johny brown is wrong.... the 2005 ford f150 2wd requires a rotor/bearing assembly it is really really easy to change...... jack it up remove wheel, 18 mm wrench to remove caliper mount... then remove spindle cotterpin and nylon nut (26mm? ) with any luck the rotor/bearing /hub will pull right off ...if not a make shift lever/puller should do the trick.... I actually had a bearing frozen on the spindle that i used heat and a small 3 jaw puller to get the bearing free.... if everything goes smoothly you should be done in less then 30 min
When you remove the bolts that hold the struts to the wheel assembly, turn the nuts lose and then tap out the bolts. I was able to grab using the pozi lock pullers (OEM number 27107) that
keeps the jaws pushed against the ridge of the race while in the
extraction process. I had to jury rig something for the hole in the hub.
I used a small nut and the flat side of a horseshoe to bridge the hole
(Anything similar would probably work). Note that anytime using a puller
that you have to tighten the puller as tight as you can with your
fingers then using a hammer rap sharply the shaft of the puller one time
to help dislodge the race. Repeat this process until you can turn the
handle without the rapping. As the race pulls off the hub, I used a
large washer and a nut to take up the space between the side of the
horseshoe and the hub to get the race fully off. Here you can find quality auto parts to replace http://www.autopartspoint.com/products/wheel-hub-bearing.html
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
NOTE: The wheel bearings are not serviceable. If the bearings are bad, a new hub/bearing assembly must be installed.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear wheel hub and bearing assembly (disc brake model shown, drum is similar)
Brake drum, if equipped
Rear caliper and rotor assembly from the hub, if equipped
Hub dust cover
Raise the staked portion of the hub retaining nut with a hammer and chisel.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Hub retaining nut and discard it
Hub and bearing assembly from the spindle
Fig. 2: When installing the new hub nut, be sure to stake it into the notch on the spindle
Install or connect the following:
Bearing assembly on the spindle. Torque the new nut to 131-173 ft. lbs. (177-235 Nm)
remove cv outer nut, tire brake caliper and lower ball joint use a bar to pry against lower a frame to seperate ball joint slip out cv axel then remove four nuts securing wheel bearing. I would have to check at home for exact instructions.
I assume you mean a front wheel bearing went out? Remove the axle nut. Remove the wheel and brake caliper. Remove the tierod end by first unbolting, then popping it off with a "picklefork" and hammer. Remove the bottom balljoint. Either unbolt the whole strut, or remove the spindle from the rest of the strut. Pull the spindle off the axle splines. Take the spindle to a press to push out the hollow stub axle. Remove the bearing retainer. The press out the bearing. Do not use a hammer instead of a press, because it will damage the bearing. But you can use the weight of the vehicle like a press if you are really desperate.