Question about 2004 Dodge Stratus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it is the service engine light, go to Auto Zone and they will put a scanner on it for free and diagnose the code. I may have fixed the same problem with my daughter's 2004 Dodge Stratus 2.7L V-6 a few months ago. Is it the "Oil Pressure Light" or the service engine light? My daughter's car had a sporadic low oil pressure light. Checking the actual oil pressure is more work, so I guessed it was the Oil Pressure sending unit and it was. When I took it off it the electrical connection was soaked in oil due to some internal failure. I put a new oil pressure sending unit on and the oil pressure light has not come back on.
If you remove the wire connector and there is no oil on anything, try sparying it with electrical parts cleaner and putting it back together. If the oil light is still on you will need to replace the sending unit.
It is an easy job, but it must be done from the underside of the engine in a tight space. Make sure the enginer is cool because the sending unit is close to the exhaust. There is an aluminum heat shield with three (3) bolts that needs to be removed and is most of the work. You will need to plug the hole with a clean rag or wait for the next oil change to do the job and replace it after you drain the oil.
If the easy steps above do not solve the problem then you may have bigger trouble like a bad oil pump, or worse yet, a really worn out engine that needs a rebuild.
Just last week, I has a SEL scanned at Auto Zone and it turned out to be the Engine Coolant Temperatuere Sensor. I removed the electrical connection and sprayed it with electric parts cleaner and put it back together. No light since then. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
It's not the most convenient location, but if you follow to top radiator hose back to where it meets the engine, that is the thermostat housing. It should have the radiator hose and a heater hose hooked up to it. Here's the shop manual directions for changing it, if you want them.
The following instructions come from my Hanes Repair Manual #25040 for the replacement of a thermostat on the 2.7 L engine:
1. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the right front wheel. Remove the accessory drivebelt splash shield.
2. Remove the accessory drivebelts.
3. Remove the lower alternator mounting bolt.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Disconnect the alternator electrical connectors.
6. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the air conditioning compressor.
7. Remove the oil dipstick and the dipstick tube. Plug the hole in the oil pan with a clean shop rag to prevent debris from entering the pan.
8. Remove the rest of the alternator mounting bolts and then remove the alternator.
9. Loosen the hose clamps and then disconnect the two hoses from the thermostat housing cover.
10. Remove the thermostat housing cover bolts and then remove the housing.
11. Note how the thermostat is installed, with the "jiggle valve" at the 12 o'clock position, and then remove the thermostat.
12. Remove all traces of sealant from the housing and coverr with a gasket scraper.
13. Install the thermostat housing cover and then tighten the bolts to the correct torque.
14. Reattach the hoses to the thermostat housing cover. Make sure that the hose clamps are still tight.
15. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal.
16. When you're done, refill the cooling system.
17. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and proper thermostat operation.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
The fix is replacement of motor!! I have the same problem and have already paid $700 in repairs to fix seal just to find out that the seal is being knocked out by loose crank shaft..Car had 60000 miles when I bought it 4 months ago, from a dealership, and now it needs a motor replacement..I stiil owe $5000 on a car that is worth $0..Dodge did not give the 100000 mile warranty they love to advertise on TV for the '06 Stratus..They only gave 36000 warranty because they did not think it would last much longer..Will never buy Chrysler product again!! They do not stand behind what they sell or they would have 100000 mile warranty on all their cars..
Posted on Feb 11, 2010
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