Question about 2002 Ford Focus
2002 Ford Focus flapping noise when accelerating or cruising. Noise not evident when standing still.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Loud noise frm engine area
We can not give you any kind of reasonable diagnosis without alot more information. Give us a some adjectives; banging, tapping, etc. Better yet, go to the auto parts store and get a machanics stethoscope. Put the metal rod of the scope on various locations on the engine, and tell us where the noise comes from. Since you say it is a loud noise, concentrate on the lower part of the motor. I am thinking a connecting rod.
Posted on Aug 11, 2008
SOURCE: Ford Focus Front end noise
This response is for monachan...
The noise you are hearing could be the serpentine (SP) belt & tensioner...
I had the same problem and had to have them changes and the noise is no longer there!!!
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Grab the bed of the truck and vigorously rock the vehicle from side to side. If you hear clunking in the axle, you probably need to check the carrier bearings in the differential. I had the carrier bearings, wheel bearings, and seals replaced in my mother-in-law's 1991 Ranger for $280, and it rides like a new truck. Well, ok, it rides like an 18 year old truck with a new rear end. I provided the wheel bearings and seals to the shop, and they provided the carrier bearing, lube, and labor. While the axles are out, check the surface where the axles ride on the bearings. If they are worn, there are undersized bearing available, but it is usually cheaper and easier to just by new axles.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
SOURCE: Ford Focus
Exactly the same problem.
2000-2003 Focus vehicles may exhibit a noise from the right halfshaft support bearing.
Due to the way the driveshaft is designed there is central bearing on the the shaft. On the front drivers side it has the tendency to hum at speeds over 40mph. This is the first sign that is the bearing is going. According to Ford it can be quite common in cars of 50-60k plus. If you don't notice the hum (I didn't really) you will eventually start to get a ticking/crackling noise at speed, which will gradually get worse and take less travel time to get going. Eventually the bearing will just seize, so it is worth getting it sorted.
Unfortunately even private mechanics will have to source the bearing, which isn't cheap, so it will cost around 125-150 quid at the garage to fix. It can be a pretty fiddly job, as the whole driveshaft needs to come out (not easy in high mileage cars due to build up of grime etc), so I wouldn't attempt to replace at home unless experienced.
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
Did you have the recall done on it ?
recall 05S28. Description: Speed Control Deactivation Switch.
It could be a blow fuse in the recall harness, if you did have it done.
Try the self test, and see what the results are. If you do not get it into self test mode, it could be the fuse in teh recall harness that is blown. The 1st revision of the recall harness was an inline ATM fuse, not sure if the revision 2 was the same. If that fuse is blown, the switch is leaking, and should be checked.
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
Posted on Feb 23, 2010
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