Question about 2006 Cadillac SRX
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Well according to my mitchell manuel you don't have to.here is the procedure.
1. open the hood.
2.Remove the push-pin retainer's that secure the top of the upper facia and grill assembly to the upper tie bar to allow the upper facia and grill assembly to flex forward.
3. remove ther bolt and push-pin retainer that secures the top of the headlight assembly to the upper tie bar.
4. Gently pull the upper facia and grill assembly forward to access the bolt on the inboard side of the headlight assembly
5. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out to disengage the the snap in retainer at the lower outboard back surface of the assembly. Turn the assembly so that the inboard assembly clears the front facia.
6. pull the assembly out and away from the veh.From there you'll be able to access bulbs.
be careful not to touch the bulb with fingers or oil in skin will blow bulb.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
wow i feel sorry for you because Cadillac designed this bulb to be a don't get to bulb but OK here's what you do take the bottom cover off or skid plastic panel under neath the front end theirs little plastic clips holding it on just get come dikes and don't cut them but just use it to help pull them out. after you get that off use a flash light and locate your light housing you should see two screws holding the house in i think those screws are 8mm i cant remember remove those two screws and be careful the metal from the bumper cuts you pull the light housing out and remove all the screws around the housing and open the housing up replace the bulb and make sure your contact to the bulbs clean and then reassemble the way you took apart. if you cant get it well then best bet is take it somewhere i know Cadillac charges an arm and a leg so you can go somewhere else.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
The pinging noise that you hear is detonation occuring in one or more of the cylinders. The dealer suggested to move to a higher octane inorder to prevent this because the higher the octane the higher the prevention of Detonation.
The Probable cause of the pinging, would be that you refilled with a bad batch of gasoline. Premium should be used in this vehicle no matter what. Due to the clearances of the heads and valves in the motor. And also due to the material used to make the cylinder heads, if severe detonation occures then the valves could be damaged.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
First you have to take out the one and only screw in the rear hatch door - it's where the hand pull down is you use to close the hatch.
Then you have to pop all the plastic clips all the way around the plastic door panel, trying not to pull them out from the frame . If you do pull out the white plastic plugs from the frame you better make certain you take them off the plastic housing and insert them back into their frame holes - or you will never get the housing back on.
Once you have the housing loose disconnect the inside tail gate light wire to remove the whole thing. Then you have to remove 7 to 8 nuts from the back of entire License plate, back up bulb housing using a deep socket to get in there. Work it loose from the rear of the car and it will come out just enough to work on the lights.
This is tricky since the screw mounts don't give you much room to work with.
Once you have the license plate and back up bulb frame loose you will see the two housings for the license plate bulbs on top.
Slide out the license plate bulb lens and twist the bulb connection to remove the bulbs.
Replace both of them - you don't want to do this again in a month when the other one blows.
Once you take out the bulbs you might see that the housing is melted where the bulb wanted to burn through. Drill two small holes one is each end of the housing before I put everything back together to release some of the heat.
Reverse the whole process to put everything back together. It's not easy.
Make sure you insert the cables through the opening for the hatch handle or it will kink and not work properly.
The bulbs come in a two pack of cost $4.95 .
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
If you go to the auto parts store they should have a fuel line disconnect tool that has a 5/16ths end an a 3/8ths end. The tool is shaped like an X. Before you start you need to pull the fuel pump fuse under the front of the REAR passenger side seat while the car is running and let it stall. it will release the built up pressure. This is important unless you want gas to spray every where. Then take the tool and start with the end of the filter with two lines. Place the appropriate end of the tool over the smallest inlet, push the tool in then pull the line towards the filter and then push the line away and it should disconnect. Do the same with line above. Then you can use the two appropriate size wrenches to disconnect the outlet end. reconnecting the new filter is simple just make sure your quick connect lines click in all the way and you tighten the outlet line well, I think its like 22 or 25 ft/lbs.
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
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