Question about 1998 Mazda Protege
Had put on computor and says my spark plugs are bad but they look good. Every 4 to 6 weeks have to change spark plugs. they progressively get worse over time. The car misses but gas mileage is good. Replaced plug wires and distributor cap. Can the plugs overheat and weaken the porcelin insulator causing it to arc across to wall? And if so , what would cause them to overheat? used anti seize but didnt help.
Well the only thing I can tell you about this is where are you getting your part from and if you always have a problem with the car with the same problem? Trying to get a better brand of parts or ether your distributor putting too much load to the ignition system
Posted on Nov 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Offhand, a lot of possibilities that can cause no spark and/or deteriorating performance.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back with error codes, how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
SOURCE: No spark?
Hi, common thing with the mazda was the coil or the ignition amplifier going faulty, both of which are located within the distributor, the coil ususally gives the symptoms you describe, a weak spark. The coil is the most common failure aswell for your vehicle i would recommend a new one, also make sure distributor is spinning as it could just be a case of a broken timing belt.
Good luck Davelee
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
Does "entire distributor aseembly" include the metal gear shaft??
If so, you must remove the distributor again and re-insert it in the proper gear groove.
Normally, you "mark" the distributor and the engine with a marker before you remove the shaft so that you can replace it so the gears mesh in the correct position.
You can use "trial and error" to reposition the distributor or you can:
1. Turn the engine to the "Top Dead Center" (TDC) position so that the distributor rotor points to the #1 cylinder sparkplug wire.
2. The rotor on the distributor shafdt should be positioned to "point" to the #1 sparkplug wire.
3. Re-insert the distributor gear shaft.
Please comment if you need better detail...
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
Maybe you will be surprised but I have never used torque having replaced thousand of spark plugs so far. I prefer to feel by myself the right torquing. maybe not for yours but for several types of engine, you will have to use ratchet extension, universal joint(s) to reache the spark plugs affecting the reading of your torque wrench. Threads condition, temperature of the parts (cold, warm) will also influence right reading. Do not conclude that I never use T wrench. For your safety and part 'longevity' it could be mandatory.
These things being said, just for your info the right torque should be in between 11-17 pounds-feet (15-23 N.m)
Hereafter is the way I do.
- Follow the manufacturer recommendations about spark plugs specifications. If NGK has an equivalent, GO FOR IT it's the best
- New spark plugs will be already gapped to the spec so take care to not knock the electrodes
- Yes it's a good idea to put some 'antiseize' stuff on the spark plug threads. Take care to not go over and soil the electrodes
- Proceed when the engine is cool down
- Replace the spark plug one by one beginning by the most easy positionned. Going one by one will warming you up and will avoid wiring mixup (severe risk depending of the engine)
- Take care to avoid that any dirty drop in the head hole once a spark plug is removed
- Put in place new spark just using socket and rachet extension by hands. DO NOT use rachet at this point. Doing so, you'll have the feeling and will avoid to screw it cross-thread.
-When you're sure that it is well engaged (lets say screwed half of the threads) you can go ahead with your rachet. To avoid to get it 'overthighted' I drive my rachet with one hand
over the rachet head (not by the handle). When you feel that you are at the maximum of your strength using this way, then just give a LITTLE BIT of 'thighting' with one hand on the rachet head and the other on the rachet handle (lets say 10 degrees max) and that's it.
- If you have silicone grease apply some with a 'cuetip' in the boot of your wire before to put it back in place.
-Make sure that the wire is right back in place pushing on it firmly with an kind of rotational motion
- Repeat the same process for each of the others.
- If you don't feel safe, you can try to start your engine after each of the replacement for few seconds to make sure you did well. It could avoid problem investigation by the end if something went wrong during the whole process.
Maybe I provided to many details but maybe it could help any other beginner readers.
Sorry for my english
Hope it will help
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
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