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What are the funtion of the wires at the back of the injection pump

Whats the function of the wire at the back of the injection pump, where are they attached.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Youi will need the vehicles wiring diagrams to figure that out. They may go nowhere, the wiring harness used in modern cars is the same for all variants and trim levels, so many models may not have a certain device but the connectors will be on the harness anyway.

Posted on Nov 02, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mmptruck
  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: replacing 7 wire towing plug on f150 ford truck 2002.

Green=R/H flasher
White=Battery Neg -ground
Yellow=L/H Flasher
Blue=Battery+(Some times used for caravan lighting supply)
Brown w/ white= Trailer electric brakes.
Hope this helps...

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

  • 115 Answers

SOURCE: I have a '99 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor,

you will need to change the fuel pump had that problem with one of the customers,if my info is of any help to you please leave me a comment,thankyou.

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75051 Answers

SOURCE: original fuel pump not sending fuel, newly

the pump doesn't run in accessory position, and in run it runs for 1 second then it is shut off unless the engine starts.

Posted on May 06, 2010

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: i turn the ignition switchand the fuel pumps do

Pour some gas down the intake manifold and see if it starts to verify this problem. If it starts you may have a bad fuel pump or possibly a bad ground for the body check all your body grounds. But if you're able to ground out the fuel pump and you hear it run you may have a clogged fuel filter. If you can keep the fuel pump running see if it will start if it starts you may have a wiring problem. Remember that computer controls both the positive in the ground going to the fuel pump. Good luck.

Posted on Jun 11, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have a 1994 Kia sportage 4 x 4 with an R2 diesel

there are two wire beside the injection pump,,,, i think face the injection punp it is leftside... that's the wire sensore to the tachometer

Posted on Jul 20, 2011

Testimonial: "found it actually before the reply but really appreciate the reply. confirms my hunch that it should be it."

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First off testing for power at the pump can be tricky, The pump will only get power for a few seconds when you turn the key to the on position. This is the Fuel prime function. It will also stay powered when the engine is cranking or running. If the car doesnt run, you will either need to have a helper cycle the key (waiting 10 to 15 seconds between key off then on) or have them crank the engine over (for no more than 15 seconds at a time) to see if the pump is being powered, If the pump Still has no power during either of these, there is a wire between the fuse and the pump that needs to be repaired. You will have to physicaly examine the whole wire from fuse box back, If the fuel pump has power during the prime function but during cranking, I would suspect that it is the crank sensor, as this is the primary input to command the fuel pump to continue to run.

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The fuel injection fuse should also power the injectors. If the fuse is blowing, I would think one of the injectors has shorted to ground.
Have you checked them ?

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I have a 1994 Kia sportage 4 x 4 with an R2 diesel engine. the tachometer works erratically. most often it does not work and while driving sometimes it works. i see two wire connections at the diesel...


there are two wire beside the injection pump,,,, i think face the injection punp it is leftside... that's the wire sensore to the tachometer

May 12, 2011 | 1995 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Remove and install diesel fuel injector


First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

Feb 17, 2010 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

1 Answer

410 secondary air injection malfunction code comes up


P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
"Secondary Air" is an abbreviated term for the "Secondary Air Injection System". This system uses a separate air pump and a series of metal and rubber tubes to force outside air into the exhaust stream and help the catalytic converter burn away excessive emissions.

Possible causes and fixes are:
#1 Poor connection, rubbed-through wire insulation or a broken wire inside the insulation.

#2 Inspect harness connectors for backed-out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal-to-wire connection, and damaged harness.

#3 Check for worn or loose AIR pump drive belt.

#4 Check for pinched, kinked or restricted AIR pipes, hoses or fittings.

Problems with this system can stem from electrical circuits, solenoids, or switches that control the pump and valves. Other problems include sticking valves, loose, rusted, or poorly connected lines, a broken drive belt, or possibly a bad pump.

Mar 19, 2009 | 2001 Saturn SC

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