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Drivers window will only move a little bit at a time and then you have to wait in between times.

Power window will go down a little but will not go back up unless you wait and then it will take ten times to move it a half a inch

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: RE: Power window

You need a new window regulator. I have replaced both front passenger and driver. Not hard takes 30 mins. Best deal is at automotix.net or a salvage yard.

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

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SOURCE: driver side power window does not work

I had the same problem and found the the plastic clip that holds the window to the guide rails that guid the window up and down was broken. The solution is the window regulator assembly has to be replaced. The cheepest place to find replacement is the salvage yards. Older models will work but some have to be dissemble and make 1 unit out or 2. Another thing that happens is the cables that runs in the tracks get rusted and binds a little, Remove the door panel and lubicate the tracks that the cable travel in, I hope that this will help

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 1993 Chevy Lumina apv power window issue

Also try the wiring harness from door to frame. Mine had a cracked wire and tapprently this is a common problem and when the bare wire touches metal it doesn't work as well closed versus the door open when trying the windows Hard to work with so be prepared to add in a short joint of extra wire and tape up

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

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SOURCE: Power window comes up intermittently

I had the same problem. It was a bent rod on the regulator, which burned out the motor. Easiest way is to switch out the whole assembly, the motor and the regulator. Mine is working just fine now. I am a female and was able to switch it out just fine i just had to have someone else hold the window in the right positions to get to the bolts on the window.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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SOURCE: 98 corolla drivers side window won't roll down or up well

I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.

Posted on May 31, 2009

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