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If the problem is at the wheel, two possible causes are a bad wheel bearing or worn brake pads. Both of these noises will only be experienced with the vehicle on the ground and moving. Also, if this is a FWD truck and it only occurs when accelerating, it can also be caused by a failing drive axle or bad transfer case bearing.
They are fitted very securely into the axle. It will come out as it is just splined onto the output shaft. The secret is equal pressure to the rear of the hub. Because of the close tolerances, it cant just be pulled from one spot on the hub as that jams the opposite side. Tap around the rear of the hub with a hammer in a circular pattern or use a 3 jaw puller to exert equal pressure.
do not replace only the bearing. replace hub assembly. remove rim/tire , remove caliper, mounting plate, rotor. . un bolt hub assembly, unplug abs. remove front axle nut if 4x4. you may need to rent the axle nut remove kit and hub puller. pull out hub. drive axle reward out of hub. install new part. do not torque hub over 90lbs. check with parts sell for spec
Remove 2/3of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the front wheel hub extension (dual wheel vehicles only).
Insert a drift or large screwdriver through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent the rotor from turning.
Mark the relationship of the front wheel hub extension to the hub
Remove the front wheel hub extension bolts
Remove the front wheel hub extension from the vehicle. It may be necessary to tap around the perimeter of the hub extension with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the hub
Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly.
Hang the caliper and the mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire.
Remove the rotor.
If the rotor is difficult to remove due to corrosion in the hub area use the following procedure to remove the rotor (25 series only).
Clean all the surface areas and the threaded holes of contamination
Generously apply penetrating oil or the equivalent to the hub/rotor area
Insert (2) M10 x 1.5 bolts (jack screws) into the threaded holes of the rotor
Tighten both bolts evenly to force the rotor from the hub.
Clean all rust and contaminants from the both side of the rotor and the hub flange.
If the rotor was removed using the jack screw method you must ensure that the hub flange is free of nicks or marks caused by this procedure. Remove all raised nicks or marks before installing the rotor.
Install the rotor.
Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly.
1. Put the vehicle in gear, apply the parking brake and break loose the driveaxle/hub nut with a socket and large breaker bar.
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support is securely on lackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the driveaxle/hub nut.
3. Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it out of the way with wire. Remove the brake disc.
4. On models with four wheel ABS, trace the electrical lead for the wheel speed sensor along the upper control arm, then forward along the frame rail and unplug the electrical connector.
5. Remove the hub assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts. Remove the brake disc shield and wheel speed sensor assembly and set aside.
6. Tap the hub assembly from side-to-side to break it loose from the steering knuckle. Pull the hub assembly off the end of the driveaxle. Wrap the end of the driveaxle with a rag to prevent damaging it. If the hub is stuck on the splines on the end of the driveaxle, use a puller to free it.
7. Installation is reverse of removal process. Be sure to lubricate the driveaxle splines with multi-purpose grease, and tighten all of the fasteners to the proper torque.