Rear brake line 1991 f250

Any part of the brake line is replaceable. If there are fittings on either end e Than it is as simple as removing the old piece, buying a piece of brake line with the same fittings, bending the new line to fit in the space, tightening the fittings on the new line, and then bleeding the brakes.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I assume you have found a visual leak in the line or connection...Be sure to thoroughly soak both end connections with PB Blaster before tryting to loosen. You should purchase the replacement line fitting from your parts store to compare they are the same...(May be a dealer only part) This line connects to the brake caliper, and the frame. Unfortunately, you will need to bleed all brake lines after the switch out...Be sure to start with the right rear, then left rear, then right front...and finally the left front. You will need to refill the brake reservoir after the fluid bleed. Hope this helps.

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding

1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.

1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.

1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
   

1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
   

1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.

1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.

1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
   

1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.

1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.

1. Close the bleeder fitting.

1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.

1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.

1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.

1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
   

1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

you have air in the lines or a leak somewhere. tighten all your fittings and start at the pass side rear wheel. get a piece of vacuum hose that will fit on the bleeder and put one end on the bleeder and one end in a cup half full of brake fluid. have someone start the truck and pump the brakes slowly and watch the cup for bubbles. when the bubbles stop go to the next wheel if they dont stop after five minits of pumping you have a leak. i worked for hours on a truck finally finding a very small leak in the hose that goes from the rearend to the line down the frame. some part stores rent or loan vacuum pumps for doing brakes that work great just hook up to the bleeder and turn it on making sure that the master cylinder stays full and it pulls the fluid thru removing all the air.

most parts will interchange,however,the front brakes,the calipers and lockouts will be different.the rotors should be the same,the rear diff-as long as the ratio is the same,trans is different,not sure about the transfercase

Fixing a brake line is not hard, but first the question is where is the line broke... If the line is broke in the rear of the car or truck sometimes it is best to just replace that short peice of line with the screw in fittings on both ends.. On the rear of most cars and trucks the line runs to a tee and out of both sides of the tee a shorter line runs to each rear brake...You can find them at a ford dealer and the line will be bent to the shape of the line you are replacing with the two fitting on both ends.. sometimes its much cheaper to buy from auto zone or advanced auto parts..They also sell lines with fittings in bulk, so if you know how long and the size of the fitting they will give you a peice of straight line with the fittings on the ends and you have to put the bends in the line where needed... NUMBER 2 If the the line is broke on the long straight run from the front of the car or truck that runs back to the tee theses can be fixed with a compresion fitting.. This works great if you only have a pin hole in your line and cost only a few dollars... You will have to cut the line on both sides of the pin hole about a 1/8 inch and slide nut cap on first and next slide on the line ball on the brake line this has to be done on both sides of the broken line.. next is the center peice of the compresion fitting, gently pull the line apart enough to slide the center peice overthe cut line, now the same has to be done to the other side ... Once the the center peice is in place on the cut line slide line balls and nut caps to the center peice start to thread your nut caps on to the center peice tighten..

Not sure I understand your question, but I'll try to help, the brake lines are one size (the diameter of the line), although the fittings on the ends that connect one line to another will appear different, as they must be different so they can thread together. If they were exactly the same fittings on the end of the brake lines, they of course would not be able to be connected and tightened. So, a small end connection will attach to a a larger end connection. Hope this makes sense, if I misunderstood your question, please let me know, and I'll try again!

Flex line screws into the block where the two steel lines for each side brakes are joined.

IT IS POSSIBLE THE WHEEL CYLINDERS are wrong and need too much fluid to push brakes out. or rear shoes are not adjusted correct. this could be from drums too big(unlikely since new) shoes are not fitting to drum correct.You can take shoes off and set them in drum the whole shoe should contact drum sometimes just the ends contact. If this is case sand off ends of lining to make it fit .
If wheel cylinders are bad they would leak. might try a different brand of cylinders.

Depends on your mechanic ablilites. Steel brake line is basically 0.188 inch diameter line, and the metric 6mm line dia is very closely same.
Dodge uses ISO bubble flare , and not the American standard double flare at the end of the steel tube line. This ISO bubble flare on the steel line then fits into its mate female end which is the rubber hose connector end.
So, easiest way to get rid of the ISO bubble flare and change to American double flare end is:
Some automotive stores such as Parts Plus Auto Stores carry the brass brakeline adapter which has one end being the male end that fits nicely into the rubber hose with its ISO bubble female fitting, while the other end of the brass line adapter is the female end which has the double flare so you can then insert the steel line replacement with standard double flare into this end of the adapter.
Steel line , bungy brake line or equivalent is fine, and has the brake line nuts already on it, and is flared for you too. If you want to stay with ISO bubble line fittings you can get that in bungy brake line lengths too but it is less common for some stores to carry, and that is why the conversion brake line fitting adapter mentioned is so easy a way to change from ISO bubble flare to a double flare for easier use of all steel line being standard American double flared brake line. The brake lines come in straight lengths, 2ft 4ft, and 6ft, so you can use them to fit your necessary total length by connecting them with tubing couplers which the steel tube lines brake line nut gets threaded into.
My same year Durango had its rear line blow thru last year, due to the rusting of the steel brake line. I just got done last week, doing a entire steel line replacement myself. It was a medium sized effort for sure. You should check the other lines for the entire brake system to see if you need to replace more than just that section which failed for you, as my lines showed heavy corrosion at many other locations in the brake line system.
It is easy to double flare brake line tubing , and Sears sells its craftsman brand of brake line double flare tool kit for that purpose at about 60 bucks if I recall it right.
One thing you should do when doing your own double flaring, is to use a dial caliper to measure the diameter of the flare at its widest flared end, to insure you are within the required diameter of flare to insure proper sealing when you tighten down the tube flare nuts. I recall the flare diameter is supposed to be 0.272 inches , plus or minus 0.006 inches ( so range of dial caliper measuring of that formed flare should be between 0.266 inch and 0.278 inch) to insure the right diameter of flare for good sealing.
You can also get steel galvanized tubing line in coils of 20ft and more, with a bunch of brake line nuts ( all this is standard american brake line nuts, for double flared line fitting) from Inline Tube company; www.inlinetube.com.
Check out the great tech info from FEDHILL website, www.fedhillusa.com
Good luck, I did it so you can do it and feel satisfied and safe for the family with solid and sound steel line that is much better than chancing an accident via leaving the rusted line in place.