Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 toyota echo, wheel bearings
I found this site to be very helpful with this job: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?s=714b28cb1c3f77f992209de0bdbfbd13&p=2481776#post2481776
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
SOURCE: Replacing front wheel bearing
The brake rotor needs to be removed, drive shaft nut in center of hub then 3 bolts hold the hub assembly to spindle from back side. if it has abs unplug it then some work will need to be done with a hammer and chisel to work the bearing out of spindle and axle shaft from bearing
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
You need air tools, many differnet size sockets and a press. The strut/spindle and lower control arm have to come out all together. leaving the axle in the car.The spinlde cannot be removed from the strut. once removed, you can then unbolt the lower control arm ball joint nut, and seperate the lower control from the spindle - for ease for the press. press the hub out, remove the snap rings on either side and press the old bearing out. press in new bearing , install snap rings, press the hub in and reinstall. I just did one today... I have 15 years experience as a ford tech - Ugh bro.. - Josh
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
Diagnosing the bearings can be tricky depending on severity of wear. Typically - drone noise at highway speeds, squeeling, clicking or grinding noises at low speeds that reduce during braking, or pull off the wheel and brake assembly and check the bearing for slack or smoothness of rotation by hand. While doing this, check the brake assembly thoroughly - generally a more likely culprit of wheel noise.
Wheel bearing replacement is not for the novice backyard mech. - you will need pullers, press, etc. If you can get a rebuilt assembly - much easier.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Take off the wheel, then the brake caliper, noow you have the roter. in the center is a cap, the center cap, this comes off by pruing it off with a screwdriver. Inside that a retaning pin, take that out, then a nut cover, and nut with grooves in it from where you took out the pin. It is good to mark about where it was so when you put it together, you will not overtighten it.
Take that nut off, then you should be able to take off the whole assembly, bearings and all. If this is a sealed unit, you have to but a roter that will have the guts already inside it. make sure you clean off all of the old grease, you are going to replace critical parts, so you need new grease for them. Also make sure your spildle is not grooved, if so haw bad, you might replace it to if all gualled up.
on a sealed unit you just reverse the steps from taking it off.
if not you have to knock out the old races in the caliper, the one side by a wide screwdriver and hammer, there are pullers, but from the way it sounds, it is in there tight. Just be carefull not to kill the sides and rotate it around when doing this. once it is out, do the other side, find a socket that size, one thak will fit in the race almost to the edges and beat it out. now make sure the caliper is in a flat surface, and use a blanket or something toi avoid knicking the thing.
once both are out, just reverse the process, grease the inside just a bit and when you put the race in use a socket that is the size of the race, and beat it in evenly.grease your bearings, make sure you do one side at a time, and putting them back on the spindle is a cake walk compared to what you just have done.
hope this helps
Posted on May 26, 2009
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