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What line comeing out of the master cylinder is for the rear brakes on a 1987 chevy caprice

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  • 180 Answers

Usually the rear line on master cylinder

Posted on Nov 01, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Jay_from_Ma
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SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems

Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Good luck!

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-

Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale

do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Chevy 1500 pickup 2wd

One of the wheel cylinders is leaking, pulling air back into brake system and it's going back to the4 master cylinder. Look for brake fluid leaking at one of the wheel cylinders, that's where the problem is.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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I just replaced the brake master cylinder and rear wheel cylinder on my 1987 toyota pickup, and now I have no fluid going to the back brakes. Bleeding them does nothing


check for fluid before and after the proportioning valve by disconnection the line after the valve and applying the brakes, if no fluid after valve try before valve if fluid is there then it is a bad proportioning valve. you did bleed the master cylinder before connecting the brake line and trying to bleed the brakes all at once right? If the master cylinder was not bled first then a lot of air may have been forced into the rest of the brake lines.

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1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on a 1992 Chevy Caprice. Specifically the rear drums


start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

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Need a diagram of barke lines to rear drums on jeep cherokee 1987


if it has drum brakes there is one line from master cylinder back to rear end.
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Bring cylinder one up to top dead center..Make sure on the distributor cap rotor is pointed at number one..The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.Hope this helps you,,Have a great night...

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The master cylinder brake lines broke before the proportion valve


Obviously you have a bunch of badly rusted lines. Better they failed while you were working on them rather than driving down the road! Carefully inspect the remainder of the lines and if in similar condition to the ones that failed, you need to replace them. When finished and system is tight, then bleed out system. (check it twice to ensure all air is gone.)

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1 Answer

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This is just a shot on the dark but did you use a low end brake fluid as this has been known to cause braking problems.

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