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Service Engine light is on. Getting codes P1402 and P1442.. What is the problem?

Had Knock sensor ,intake gasket and 2 heater hoses replaced. Have 149,749 miles on truck. Please help

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: Code #P0171 & code #P0174

The most common problem on a Ford with these codes is deteriorated PCV hoses. Check the hoses from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. Pay special attention to the rubber elbows. They often crack on the inside curve and the crack is hard to see.

Posted on May 22, 2008

rockfixya
  • 679 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Chevy S10 4.3 02

problem is in replacement of O2 senser try again to put it.
take a help from a link>>

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4219927.html?page=2

happy to help u any time.
Thanks for using FixYa.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

SOURCE: 1996 Nissan Maxima 2.5 V6 Engine Knock sensor

The knock sensor is a major pain in the a..s to change I would suggest taking it to a reputable shop for a second opinion to see if they realy performed the work. Also with OBD11 (2) diagnostics if you have multiple misfires its not the wires its something else, also if you got a code for a misfire it would be specific as to which cylinder is misfiring. My best guess would be to get your coil checked.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

Testimonial: "Excellent "

  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: service engine soon light on 2002 chevrolet tahoe stays on

That normally means that you have a issue with your gas cap try replacing your gas cap first then diconnect the negative terminal of the battery for about three minutes to clear the memory and start the truck again

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: P0171 code and P0301 misfire.

I have a similar problem. I'm replacing the fuel pump and might get an aftermarket coil. The coil on my 5.2L Dakota is right behind the radiator on the front right side of the engine. Stupid spot! I'm surprised it hasn't melted!

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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1 Answer

If intake is removed for inspection, does the intake gasket have to be replaced?


in general any joints that are disassembled should have a new gasket, if there was one there. This applies to nearly all cases including rubber gaskets. The only exception would be hard plastic spacers in the joint, unless cracked.

You might get away with re-use, and a coating of gasket cement, but not guaranteed.

May 05, 2014 | 2010 Toyota Tundra

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Engine light on obd-code P0052


that would mean that an O2 sensor is going bad or is bad,or the wiring.

Sep 05, 2012 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

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2002 isuzu rodeo cylinder head torque lbs. for 2.2


Print


Removal & Installation

2.2L Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cableIntake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connectorPositive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hoseAir intake assemblyUpper radiator hoseAccessory drive beltExhaust front pipeAlternator and bracketsCrankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connectorKnock sensor connectorHeater hosesWater bypass hoseFuel linesEvaporative Emissions (EVAP) valve connectorCanister hoseIntake manifoldEngine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartmentPower steering pump pressure switch connectorFront coverSpark plugs and wiresCamshaft Position (CMP) sensorValve coverTiming belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section.Timing belt idler pulleysTiming belt rear coverOil pressure switch connectorCamshaftsCylinder head. Remove the bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence.

    Negative battery cable Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose Air intake assembly Upper radiator hose Accessory drive belt Exhaust front pipe Alternator and brackets Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector Knock sensor connector Heater hoses Water bypass hose Fuel lines Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) valve connector Canister hose Intake manifold Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Power steering pump pressure switch connector Front cover Spark plugs and wires Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor Valve cover Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section. Timing belt idler pulleys Timing belt rear cover Oil pressure switch connector Camshafts Cylinder head. Remove the bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence.

To install:


0996b43f802097a8.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Cylinder head torque sequence-2.2L (VIN D) engine

NOTE Use new cylinder head bolts for assembly.

  1. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: Step 1: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)Step 2: Plus 90 degreesStep 3: Plus 90 degreesStep 4: Plus 90 degrees
    1. Step 1: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
    2. Step 2: Plus 90 degrees
    3. Step 3: Plus 90 degrees
    4. Step 4: Plus 90 degrees

  2. Install or connect the following: CamshaftsOil pressure switch connectorTiming belt rear coverTiming belt idler pulleys. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).Timing beltValve coverCMP sensorSpark plugs and wiresFront coverPower steering pump pressure switch connectorEngine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartmentIntake manifoldCanister hoseEVAP valve connectorFuel linesWater bypass hoseHeater hosesKnock sensor connectorCKP sensor connectorAlternator and bracketsExhaust front pipeAccessory drive beltUpper radiator hoseAir intake assemblyPCV valve and hoseIAT sensor connectorNegative battery cable

    Camshafts Oil pressure switch connector Timing belt rear cover Timing belt idler pulleys. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Timing belt Valve cover CMP sensor Spark plugs and wires Front cover Power steering pump pressure switch connector Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Intake manifold Canister hose EVAP valve connector Fuel lines Water bypass hose Heater hoses Knock sensor connector CKP sensor connector Alternator and brackets Exhaust front pipe Accessory drive belt Upper radiator hose Air intake assembly PCV valve and hose IAT sensor connector Negative battery cable
  3. Fill the cooling system.
  4. Start the engine and check for leaks.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose Air intake assembly Upper radiator hose Accessory drive belt Exhaust front pipe Alternator and brackets Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector Knock sensor connector Heater hoses Water bypass hose Fuel lines Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) valve connector Canister hose Intake manifold Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Power steering pump pressure switch connector Front cover Spark plugs and wires Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor Valve cover Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt procedure. Timing belt idler pulleys Timing belt rear cover Oil pressure switch connector Camshafts Cylinder head. Remove the bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence.

To install:

0996b43f802097a8.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Cylinder head torque sequence-2.2L (VIN D) engine


NOTE Use new cylinder head bolts for assembly.

  1. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
    1. Step 1: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
    2. Step 2: Plus 90 degrees
    3. Step 3: Plus 90 degrees
    4. Step 4: Plus 90 degrees

  2. Install or connect the following:

    Camshafts Oil pressure switch connector Timing belt rear cover Timing belt idler pulleys. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Timing belt Valve cover CMP sensor Spark plugs and wires Front cover Power steering pump pressure switch connector Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Intake manifold Canister hose EVAP valve connector Fuel lines Water bypass hose Heater hoses Knock sensor connector CKP sensor connector Alternator and brackets Exhaust front pipe Accessory drive belt Upper radiator hose Air intake assembly PCV valve and hose IAT sensor connector Negative battery cable
  3. Fill the cooling system.
  4. Start the engine and check for leaks.

May 26, 2012 | Isuzu Rodeo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I replace a knock sensor for a 1992 toyota camry v6 le


First, I would like to mention that most knock sensor codes are not caused by the knock sensors, but a mechanical problem with the engine. The knock sensors cannot differentiate between noises caused by mechanical problems like a bad pulley bearing, bad motor mount, noisy alternator bearings, etc. and spark knock. knock sensor codes are set when the computer has retarded the timing as far as possible to compensate for ignition ping (Spark Knock) and the noise still exists.

With that said, here are the instructions.

Remove the Intake Chamber assembly.
Disconnect Injector connectors.
Disconnect the heater hose from the Intake Manifold.
Remove the 9 bolts. 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and Intake Manifold assembly.
Remove right hand engine mounting stay and water outlet.
Disconnect the following hoses and connectors:
Radiator inlet hose.
Engine coolant reservoir hose.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor connector.
Engine Coolant Temperature Switch connector.
Ground strap connector.

Remove the 3 bolts and right hand mounting stay.
Remove the wire band.
Disconnect the water bypass hose from the inlet housing.
Remove the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and water outlet.
Remove the 2 gaskets.
Disconnect the Knock Sensor connectors.
Remove the Knock Sensors.



Dec 02, 2010 | 1992 Toyota Camry V6

1 Answer

Service engine soon light on, says bank 1 and 2 lean


this code sets when more air is entering the system than is designed to. the computer is having to overcompensate by adding more fuel. usually this code is associated with a vacuum leak, either a vacuum hose or a leak at the throttle body gasket, intake gasket, or another gasket on the intake manifold. if your vehicle has a mass air flow sensor (as opposed to a MAP sensor) a dirty or faulty mass air can cause both banks to be lean

Feb 20, 2010 | 2004 Suzuki XL-7

1 Answer

1989 K1500 GETTING CODE 43 NEW ENGINE REPLACED KNOCK SENSOR AND THE CONTROL MODULE.


The 43 is the knock sensor, the wires must be broken or fused together to continue to get the same code.
Testing the sensor for the DIY Knock sensors detect detonation ( knocking ) by reacting to the ping by retarding the ignition timing so you will need a timing light for this. connect the timing light and locate the knock sensor, ( many are on the intake manifold ) now use a metal object to tap ( not too hard and not on the sensor itself ) on the intake manifold ( light tapping should suffice ), if the sensor is functioning you will see the timing ******. If the timing does not ****** you will need to check voltage across the terminals of the knock sensor connector.
Though that excerpt says your sensor is in the intake,I believe yours is in the water drain hole for the engine block.
I also found that most shops are to replace the wire to the knock sensor because of so much failure of those wires because of heat.
Enough information?Repost if this doesn't help and we can look at some other things to try.

Jan 17, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Toyota Camry Knock Sensor Problem The top of the radiator on my 1993 3.0 lt Toyota Camry V6, 3VZ FE engine split some months back and it overheated. I have since sorted out the head gaskets and it seems to...


Hello. You have posted an excellent question.

The code 55 you are getting, in Toyota terms, as as follows:

"No number one knock sensor signal to the ECU fo four crank revulutions under these 2 conditions: Coolant temperature 140 degrees F or more; Engine speed between 1600 and 5200 RPM."

This indicates a failed (or a loose) knock sensor on the Right Bank of the engine. Since the knock sensor is basically a piezo-electric crystal, not continuity test can be performed with the intake manifold installed.

You can check the continuity form the Knock Sensor wires to the ECM, but, this may not prove useful to you.

Unfortunately, you are going to have to pull the intake, and check the knock sensor wiring integrity. If the connector is good, and the sensor is tight, I would suggest replacing the sensor. Actually, if you were in my shop, I would suggest replacing them both, as the whole intake will have to come off if the other sensor fails. Better to replace them both at once, than to pull the intake again.

We here at FixYa hope that this helps you out, and saves you some future reoair dollars. Thanks for choosing FixYa for advice.

Jan 08, 2010 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6

1 Answer

In changing the knock sensors on 2000 suburban ,


If you have a 5.3 or a 6.0L engine the knock sensors ( 2 ) are under the intake manifold. You will need a set of intake manifold gaskets.

Jul 27, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet 2500

1 Answer

2003 Honda Oddyssey - PO325 Knock Sensor


If The engine in your van is a 3.5L, the knock sensor is under the upper intake manifold. This has to be removed in order to access the sensor on top of the engine block. The job requires an upper intake gasket set and about 1.5 hours to do; if you are handy with tools. For those who aren't; better off leaving this one to the professionals.

Oct 26, 2008 | 2003 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Have a 1999 lexus es300. Getting indications that knock sensors need to be replaced. Car has 144k miles. What do the knock sensors do and how easy / tough to replace?


If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal.  If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s).  Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake.  This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.  

The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time.  After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).

You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze  (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums.  You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine.  While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose.  Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff.  Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub.  Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities.  Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools.  Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub.  Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.

Jul 27, 2008 | 1998 Lexus ES 300

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