Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
Blows only cold air trough all positions dfrost and floor also cold
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like a Blend door issue, but could be the controller switch, Test ALL modes of operation to see what works and what does not. That should narrow it down a bit. The Blend doors are flap/ doors that regulate air flow, newer vehicles are plastic - electric assemblies ...prone to failure. Any clicking or thumping noises during switching modes and on-off suggest a bad Blend door. Hope that helps...good luck
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
The heater in your car depends upon a flow of hot coolant going through the heater core in order to get hot air into the car. If the heater core is partially plugged, it will restrict the flow. If you have a head gasket that is putting exhaust into the cooling system, it will eventually get into the heater core. When this happens there is no coolant in the heater core to make the air warm. If the water pump vanes have corroded away the result will be very poor coolant circulation causing the heater to not blow hot air. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve that is not functioning properly, the coolant flow will be restricted. One or a combination of these factors is likely the culprit in your case.
if the car is not overheating, the thermostat is working fine.... replace or flush the heater core multiple times to try and eliminate sediment build-up.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
yes the heater controls are vacum however the blower motor is not. a new control panel is an option and may fix it. if it was my blazer i would first check the fuse boxes onder the hood and in the side of the dash driver side. if they are good i would go to the nearest auto parts store and buy a test light. this will aid you in making sure what the problem is before you go spending money on replacement parts. the blower motor is in one of two places. its most likely under the dash on the passenger side. there is a cover that you will have to remove directly under the glove box. once removed you should see a large red and a large black wire. these are the power and ground for the blower motor . in some gm's these wires go into a resistor. the harness plugs into the resistor and the blower motor wires come out of it. ok now that we are a little bit familiar with our suroundings the red wire i told you about is the hot wire if you ground the clamp on the test light to the door hindge. (make sure its a good ground by touching the positive batter terminal. if the test light lights its a good ground )now unplug the blower motor and touch the metal posts in the end of the plug that belong to the red wire. if it lights when the key is on and the blower control is on in all posisions you need a blower motor. if it does not then you need a blower motor resistor.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
It appears we have an Air lock scenario and you will need to perform a system Bleed.
Park the vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap, start engine and leave to idle, turn heater on full and blower to max. When engine reaches operating temperature watch and listen near coolant filler, keep clear as gurgling and hopefully a boil over should occur. Top up with very warm coolant and wait as it may do it again.
Check for heat inside vehicle if warm replace coolant cap but keep an eye on temperature gauge as the ~Air lock may have moved on from heater matrix/core so proceedure needs to be carried out again from COLD.
If persistent boil ups/over attention must made in the cylinder head
or gasket area, or possibly water pump?
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Posted on Mar 01, 2009
SOURCE: Vent control
You have a vacuum leak.Defrost is the default postion(no vacuum).
See if you can locate the small black vacuum line that goes inside the vehicle on the passenger side near the heater core. The trace it back,should see it going to a canister then to the intake manifold.Make sure it is not disconnected or broken somewhere.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
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