Question about Cars & Trucks
Fires when intake valve is open instead of when exhaust valve is open
You're wrong. It should not fire when the exhaust valve is open-that is the exhaust stroke. As the piston moves down after the exhaust stroke, the intake valve opens and the air-fuel mixture is pulled into the cylinder. Then piston travels up, compressing the mixture( both valves are closed, now), and at the top of this stroke the ignition fires, driving the piston down.
Sounds like your timing is a bit too soon, if it's firing when the intake is open. Try retarding the time just a bit.
If that doesn't work, find tdc of the compression stroke of number one cylinder: pull the sparkplug out and turn the crank around by hand (with a socket on the crank pulley) with your finger over the plug hole. As the crank comes around to the zero mark (TDC), you will feel pressure bui;ld up on your finger if you are on the compression stroke. If you are on the exhaust stroke there will not be pressure buildup as the piston approaches TDC. Once you have number one cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke, the rotor will be pointing to the number one plug wire tower on the distributor cap. If the dist. is off 180, rotor will be pointing opposite of number one.
Posted on Nov 01, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Measure the exhaust back pressure. Do you have an old O2 sensor? If so just break the ends off of it so that just the tube is left sticking thru the center. Install it in one of the O2 ports and hook a vacuum/pressure guage to it. Should read les than 1 psi at idle and no more than 3 to 4 psi at WOT.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
gregorykilke: your engine has several references if you are describing the same vehicle. The 1996 KIA Sportage has a SOHC engine and was the last year to use one before they went exclusively to twin cams.
The timing marks are as follows: On the crank, position the crank to where the woodruff key is in the 12:00 position. There is a metal plate with a notch behind the gear. If you look closely at the engine behind the plate, thought the notch, there should be a small "ARROW" which should fall within the notch. If lined up properly, the #1 piston will be at TDC.
On the top end of the engine, your cam gear is numbered 1-2-and 3. Position the cam to where the #2 on the gear is at 12:00. On the back side of that gear, should be a mark which should be running in line with the # 2 and it is the "Match mark which you line up with the small arrow or "V" on the cover.
A word of caution! This is an interference fit engine which means it BENDS VALVES IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE TIMING CORRECT AND YOU HAVE BEEN SPINNING THE ENGINE OVER!
IF>>>you are lucky, you might not have had the timing too far off and the valves may be fine, but exercise EXTREME caution when setting up the valve timing.
One way to avoid bending valves, is to make sure none of the pistons are at or close to TDC. This way, you can roll the cam in position and then watch which direction is going to bring the #1 piston up and whether it is rotating the engine clockwise or counter clockwise to bring the piston to that position , it won't harm anything. IF you feel any resistance at all STOP!!!!!! because the timing is off and you will bend valves.
Make sure the tensioner pulley bearing turns smoothly and makes no noise. DO NOT WASH IT WITH SOLVENT OR SPRAY IT OFF WITH CARB SPRAY! The solvent will get inside the sealed bearing area and contaminate the lubricant causing a premature bearing failure and a potential disaster for your engine!
Should you need further assistance on this subject, just ask and I'll do what I can to help. The belt tension is also CRITICAL!
Take care guy, Give the folks at FIXYA some input if I am doing you any good or if I have helped anyone else, write in and let them know. They want feed back. GOOD LUCK!
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
I googled the specs and i found mine it will give numbers and pictures. Sorry i couldn't actuall y give u the answer.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
First of all, you'll want to perform what's called a 'LEAK-DOWN' test. The assumption you make (regarding Intake versus exhaust) is irrevelant. Interferrence is BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances.
A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.
A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Some people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine's firing order.
A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder. You don't have to use that much pressure... you can use 30 psi... percentages are the same.
An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.
The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it's faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.
A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it usually indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). These are not ABSOLUTE conclusions -- each assumption must be VERIFIED before concluding anything. You mentioned "the lifters seem to be collapsed."... Did you VERIFY this? Since you KNOW the engine is OUT - OF - TIME because you KNOW the timing belt has SLIPPED, then you know you must PUT IT BACK IN TIME... right?...before you can continue diagnosis.... right? Otherwise, what are you MEASURING?
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
Loosen the valves up and reset valve clearance and since it is blowing out the exhaust there is 3 things it can be, timing belt, or chain or valves to tight or distrbutor is off. My guess is you put the chain on and it slipped 3 or 4 teeth and is backfireing threw the exhaust. If you need more help post here and I will help.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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