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REPLACED REAR BRAKE PIPE X5 BRAKES SPONGY HOW DO I BLEED

BLEEDING BACK BRAKES

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

txkjun
  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Ford F350 Dually Diesel Truck Brake System problem.

Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. Replacing rear pad's,& Bleeding Breaks

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

cadman000
  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: spongy brakes after bleeding

If the brakes are spongy, THERE IS STILL AIR IN THE SYSTEM. Bleed brakes again, and a 3rd time if necessary. If you are MANUALLY bleeding, by having a helper pump up the brakes, make sure they hod the PEDAL DOWN till you close the bleeder valve, or you will **** back in more air. Start bleeding the brakes from FURTHEST WHEEL, which is usually R/R. Hope this helps

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?

Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brake pedal even after ABS bleed and base brake bleed.

Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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BMW X5 3.0d 2004. Bleeding rear brakes, after fitting our brake pipe.


What is a brake pipe ? Are you trying to bleed the brakes? What was the original problem?

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

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Brakes are spongy


Did you also bleed the rear brakes? Also try the gravity bleed method working from the right rear wheel, then left rear, right front, then left front. Be SURE to keep the master cylinder full at all times while bleeding.

Jul 25, 2012 | 1998 Volkswagen Golf

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Brake pedal often goes almost to floor-not spongy at all-doesn't seep if pressure constantly applied.


Hi,
Probably air in the brake system. Bleed your brakes thoroughly. Start with right rear, then left rear, then right front then left front. Maintain proper fluid level in master cylinder while bleeding. Brake pedal hieght comes from the rear brakes, as those are the longest brake lines in the system. Mike

Jun 14, 2011 | 1993 Cadillac DeVille

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I replaced front and back brakes on my 1996 1500 Chev Suburban. Bled the brakes starting at the farthest line. The pedal is soft and travels too far. Does not seem to stop very good. What is the...


it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

Apr 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

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1976 ford f150 broke brake line and replaced it.( rear). Bleed all lines front and back.No air. levels good in mast cylnder. spongy brakes first pump 2nd pump better 3rd 4th pump back to normal.....


Bleed the brakes again. Sometimes it takes more than once to get all the air out especially if you had to do the rear brakes. Hope this helps.

Nov 10, 2010 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cylinder 4WD vehicle. I replaced the left rear brake caliper. I bled the brakes but the ABS light and brake light won't go off. The brakes are a little...


JEEP VECHICLES 2001 MODELS AND UP HAS TO BE BLED USING A DRB BLEED TOOL.YOU HAVE TOW VECHICLE IN.MOST TIME YOU CAN TRY MANUAL BLEEDING BUT BRAKES WILL BE SPONGY AND ABS LIGHTS WILL TURN ON.THE DEALERSHIP HAS TO BLEED IN ORDER TO GET GOOD SOLID BRAKES AGAIN.

Nov 08, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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No brakes push pedal to floor


leaky rear break cylinder or master cylinder

Oct 02, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

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Spongy brakes after bleeding


sometimes if you are not carefull air can get trapped in the brake lines or in the brake booster......

you should get them checked""

"i would be carefull driving"

but if you dont think air got trapped in there.....you should try upgrading those rubber hoses to steel kind.....

hope this helps XD

May 12, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes


No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.

Sep 09, 2008 | 1996 Ford Windstar

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