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Can't find "BAT" terminal on distributor for Chevy C1500 (outside coil)

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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There is no battery terminal, it is just marked (+)

Posted on Nov 01, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

MrScary66613
  • 1990 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 chevy c1500 won't start.

Have you Checked the Fuel Pump and Filter?

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: replaced distributor and rotor not starting

Are you sure you have the plug wires on the right location on the distributor cap? You'll need to have a diagram to check by. If you're off 1 placement to the right or left it won't start.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • 135 Answers

SOURCE: I replaced the distributor cap

check to see if the rotor button is on right ,the button on bottom has a square to go in square hole ,can be put on backwards also,look for that first ,see if the distribor is getting fire and is putting out fire to the plugs, hope to help ,robert b.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1993 chevy

do you have spark from The coil if not check all grounds. 5 volt referance ciruits and tach signal from pick up in distributor to coil

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 96 chevy c1500 5.7 distributor problem

after installing distributor a camshaft offset check must be performed.this requires a scan tool.start engine with scan tool attached to diagnostic connector under dash,go to cam offset,it should show a value of 0 to -2 or +2.to adjust cam offset shut off engine,loosen dist. hold-down bolt,which should be 13mm bolt head.move dist slightly,start engine and rev to 1200 rpm and check scan tool to see updated cam offset value

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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2 Answers

1997 Chevy C1500 pickup won't start?


You need to have the ignition control module checked (It's inside the distributor)

Apr 21, 2013 | 1997 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Ok I have replaced the Distributor, Cap, Rotor, checked all spark plugs and my 93 chevy c1500 is still jumping RPM'S when driving and will shut off! Can someone please help me??/


It could be a fuel problem, the pickup coil in the bottom of the distributor, or the ignition module among other things.
Someone would need to figure out if the ignition system is causing the problem or if one of the injectors is failing.

Sep 30, 2012 | 1991 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

How to check ignition coil for proper operation


  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0 or nearly 0 ohms . If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.
jturcotte_2418.gif





All tests included below.

The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:


Hard or No Starting Rough Idle Poor Fuel Economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating.
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
Instruments designed specifically for testing HEI systems are available from several tool manufacturers. Some of these will even test the module itself. However, the tests given in this section will require only an ohmmeter and a voltmeter.

CAUTION The HEI ignition system can generate voltage of 30,000-50,000 volts. When testing the system, DO NOT hold a spark plug wire while the engine is running or cranking. Personal injury and or damage to the ignition system may result if this caution is not followed.
Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system.
If the engine won't start, perform this test. This will narrow the problem area down considerably.
  1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert a HEI spark tester tool in the plug socket.
  2. Ground the spark tester to the block and crank the engine. DO NOT touch the spark plug wire while the engine is cranking.
  3. The spark should be crisp and bright blue in color. If a normal spark occurs, try each spark plug wire until a no spark condition or a weak orange color spark is found. If all sparks are good, the problem is probably not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.

If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.


If the engine runs, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a probe.
If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly and check for moisture, cracks, chips, carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to the distributor components test section.
DISTRIBUTOR COMPONENTS TESTINGSee Figures 2 and 3
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0&omega or nearly 0&omega . If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000&omega. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

jturcotte_2419.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking coil resistance. Ohmmeter 1 shows primary test. Ohmmeter 2 shows secondary test.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can only be detected with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.

  1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinite requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
  2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850&omega, or 500 and 1,500&omega on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test (early models). This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
  3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

jturcotte_2420.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing

Oct 24, 2011 | 1989 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

1996 Chevy Astro Van--"Will not


I would check the rotor very carefully. They tend to burn a hole through the plastic under the center tab. It's hard to see sometimes. The spark follows that path instead of to the wire terminals. You may just want to try a new distributor cap and rotor.

Aug 08, 2011 | 1996 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

My chevy camaro doesn't start it has lost spark the ingnition module was checked and it was ok plus were changed as well and the fuel pump


First check to see if you have power going to the distributor on top of cap it will be mark Bat if there is power the eazy thing is to do is replace distributor becuase it could be the coil,cap, rotor,or the reluctor

Jun 26, 2011 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1989 chevy truck, 5.7...will not start....no fire at spark plugs, Bat. voltage at ignition coil and to ignition module, tested ignition coil (OK), new distributor and rotor, no change. Used starting fluid...


Hi, I believe there is a computer problem. If possible check codes for no start condition. if you know the no.#1 cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center) on engine then you will know no#1 distributor is. Good luck.

Jun 14, 2011 | 1989 Chevrolet C1500

2 Answers

My 88 olds cutlass supreme FWD will not start. I have replaced the ignition module and ecm computer. I am getting fuel but no spark. The engine turns over fine.It just won't start. where do I go next?


If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery terminal (BAT) in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the on position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end at the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed. and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
  1. Connect a ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than 1 ohms.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite.

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Nov 13, 2009 | 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

How to change a pick up coil on a 1989 chevy 1500 350 5.7L


Have u changed out ur Ignition module ? Needle nose pliers to take off retainer clip.Detach negative battery terminal,remove Dist cap nd rotor. Detach pick up coil leads from module.

Oct 02, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet C1500

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