Question about Cars & Trucks
I need to connect ,my new battery back up i don't know where to hook the cable to the solenoid starter
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had a similar issue and found that the connections at the starter shifted and created a short. An old friend of mine kept frying the starter solenoid wires and kept a spare set along. He beat the problem by replacing the main ground strap/cable from the battery to the chasis. Age caused too much ground resistance and caused the ignition wires to overheat and melt. Another friend was on his fourth alternater on a Landrover when I suggested he look at the battery ground.
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
hi from the uk if you look at startermotor solenoid you will see two large threaded terminals with nuts? and a third small terminal either spade or round terminal ok? now you should see thet one of large terminals already has a metal or braides strap secured to it and the actual startermotor body? LEAVE THIS ALONE the other large terminal is the one you fit the positive+ lead to from battery also there should be another lead to also attach to same terminal this one supplies power for vehicles electrics etc ensure you secure these with nut ok? now the third small spade or post terminal you will hav a thin wire nearby ?this attaches to thisterminal on its own on solenoid this wire is the one that activates starter when ignition is turned to key start position ok? as for interior light not working ? try again when you complete the above also make sure bulb is ok? ps! before you reconnect starter wires ensure the earth/ground lead is disconnected from battery and when reconnecting battery connect positive lead first then the earth lead or if you try other way you will have sparking from pos lead as you try connecting to battery hope this info is clear instructios for you to follow and wish you luck best wishes from england
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
the top two wires dont matter a solenoid is just a switch when you send juice to the solenoid via the small wire it connects the two on the top
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
When its hooked up, you should be able to put 12 volts on the little stud on the solenoid and it should start. One large stud will have 12 volts on it, so just jump it right there. Did you get the wires in the right place. The solenoid should have 1 large wire going down to the starter. Be sure the battery cables are clean and tight ( both ends) Check battery voltage when cranking, should go to 10-11 volts. Check voltage between negative terminal on battery and engine, should be ZERO when cranking. The solenoid has 2 large studs, make sure the battery positive wire and all the other wires are hooked to this stud, the other large stud should just have the wire going to the starter.
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
It does not take much to drain a battery e.g interior light left on over night etc. OK switch everything off, disconnect the negative lead and fit a multimeter between the battery terminal and detached lead. Set scale range to 1amp. It should read near zero. Methodically remove and reinsert the fuses one at a time noting any changes whilst each fuse is removed. By a process of elimination you will find the fuse that it responsible for draining battery current. This fuse corresponds to the electrical circuit within which there is some fault or short. The starter is unlikely to blame since once the car is running the alternator will more than compensate for any current loss. Just a thought the truck is getting on in years so it could be worth also checking some of the mechanical items that might upset the running if not now certainly in the future: Exhaust GAS Recirculation (EGR) valve and inlet, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. All are located fairly close to the throttle body and are really easy to overhaul on a preventative maintenance basis. If you don't know what they are look them up on Youtube
Posted on May 02, 2010
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