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Where is the rotor button on a 2.3 liter ford engine suppose to point to be on number 1?

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 295 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 ford f150 w/ 5.0 liter..... engine light on

I would check the oil pressure of the engine. The reason is the timing chain tensioners are run with oil pressrue. I think your timing chain tensioners are leaking down when engine is getting to operating tempature . The oil is thinning down as warms up , as it should to lubercate . I would check compression and do a cylinder leak down test on all the cylinders. Then if the compression is good and the cylinder leak down is good. I would change all the timing components, ( chain, timing gears, timing chain tensioners )

Good Luck , I hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

goofduck
  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: recent scan shows number 2

second hole on passenger side of motor from the front

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

  • 532 Answers

SOURCE: my car timing i s out of set

ok,bring your #1 cylinder up to where both intake and exhaust valves are closed and your harmonic balancer timing marks are on 0 degrees,drop your distributor in where the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder leave a little loose where you can turn it while running,mark where the rotor is pointing on the intake so when you put the cap on you will know where to put #1 plug wire,of course hook up all wires,now just behind the distributor on the firewall there is a brown single wire,unplug that wire while you use a timing light to set it at 8 degrees(while its running)once you set it to where it needs to be then tighten the distributor and plug that wire back in,its for the computer for electronic advancements.if the engine pops or bangs when you try to start it,then the timing is 180 degrees off,then all you have to do is lift the distibutor out and turn it exactly 180 degrees...NOW im only going through all of this not because i dont think you know what you are doing,its because i dont want to miss anything on the timing order to avoid complications for you.

Posted on May 08, 2009

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 ford f100 inline 6 cyl 300\r\engine turns

Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a 1993 gmc 1500 350 tbi engine.I need to no if the rotor on the disturber points to the no.1 cylinder or the no.1 on the disturber cap when installing the disturber.please help


Your supposed to make a mark all that before you pull the distributor. Did you mark the relationship between distributor body and engine? Then you note where the rotor is pointing, make a scratch mark. When you reinstall the distributor, line up all the marks.

If engine was turned with distributor out, You need to put the #1 piston on tdc of compression stroke. Stab the distributor, which ever spark plug tower the rotor is pointing at/turning into, becomes number 1. Then you follow the firing order around the cap in clockwise direction.



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Okay, you have to set the number 1 cylinder at TDC of its
compression stroke, and then drop in the distributor so the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire tower. This should start the car, then you could set the timing to spec with a timing light.

There are two TDC's of a cylinder- the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. To find the compression stroke, take out the #1 cylinder spark plug. Put your finger over the hole. Now either turn the engine over by hand (with a socket on the crankshaft pulley-turn clockwise), OR have a helper bump the starter over in as short bursts as possible. As soon as you feel pressure on your finger- stop turning- the piston in #1 is rising on its compression stroke. Now check the timing pointer or scale by the crank pulley. Turn the engine slowly on over until the notch or mark on the crank pulley is right on the zero degrees mark on the scale. This is TDC of compression stroke-the piston is at top of travel in the cylinder. Put the distributor in so the rotor will be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire.

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Where is the rotory button suppose to be pointing when the number 1 piston is up for a 1980 chevy luv


When #1 piston is up the rotor can be pointing to 2 different places. For every 1 turn on the crankshaft the camshaft turns 2 times. To be sure that the rotor is in the right position to fire #1 spark plug you need to remove the valve cover and watch the valves as you turn the engine. To be correctly positioned the intake valves have to be open and stasrting to close as you turn the crank to align the timing marks (TDC). As you pass TDC the intake valves are closed and the exhaust valves start to open. Back up so the timing marks line up and this is where the rotor is going to fire #1. If this is not what you are seeing, then simply rotate the engine 1 complete turn and you should see it happen then.

Unless you have changed the timing chain or removed the distributor this shouldn't be necessary.Perhaps if you suspect the truck has "jumped her time" then this could help to confirm. If you are doing routine maintenance, plugs, wires, cap and rotor then you don't need to be concerned that the timing marks line up but not the rotor button. Hope this helps.

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Help me how too set firing order


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1999 Ford F 150 4WD Pickup 5.4 liter V-8 Prop SOHC VIN "Z"
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1999 Ford F 150 4WD Pickup 5.4 liter SOHC V-8 VIN "3"

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Hope this helps (remember to rate this).

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Hello, I have attached a figure to help you out. The point with out the black dot is Number one on the distributor. Hope this helps. Please rate.

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My cam shaft timming gear and my crank shaft timming gear dots line up and my harmonick balancer timming mark is on 0 which way should my rooter button face towards number 1 or towards rear of engine


The rotor should be pointing close to number 1, but keep in mind that the spark is actually supposed to happen before the piston gets to tdc so the rotor will be a little bit past the number 1 terminal when the crankshaft indicates that you're at tdc.

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What is the firing order for a 1984 ford bronco 2


1-4-2-5-3-6
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Where's the number one cylinder on a ford f-150 truck?


Select your Engine for Ford Pick-Ups/Expedition/Navigator 1997-2000...

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I hope help you (remember rated this help) good luck.

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