Question about Cars & Trucks
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would check the oil pressure of the engine. The reason is the timing chain tensioners are run with oil pressrue. I think your timing chain tensioners are leaking down when engine is getting to operating tempature . The oil is thinning down as warms up , as it should to lubercate . I would check compression and do a cylinder leak down test on all the cylinders. Then if the compression is good and the cylinder leak down is good. I would change all the timing components, ( chain, timing gears, timing chain tensioners )
Good Luck , I hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
SOURCE: my car timing i s out of set
ok,bring your #1 cylinder up to where both intake and exhaust valves are closed and your harmonic balancer timing marks are on 0 degrees,drop your distributor in where the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder leave a little loose where you can turn it while running,mark where the rotor is pointing on the intake so when you put the cap on you will know where to put #1 plug wire,of course hook up all wires,now just behind the distributor on the firewall there is a brown single wire,unplug that wire while you use a timing light to set it at 8 degrees(while its running)once you set it to where it needs to be then tighten the distributor and plug that wire back in,its for the computer for electronic advancements.if the engine pops or bangs when you try to start it,then the timing is 180 degrees off,then all you have to do is lift the distibutor out and turn it exactly 180 degrees...NOW im only going through all of this not because i dont think you know what you are doing,its because i dont want to miss anything on the timing order to avoid complications for you.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.
Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.
Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.
Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).
If no dwell signal, then...
1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.
This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.
2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.
3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.
4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.
5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.
If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.
If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.
If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 06, 2016 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab
May 28, 2015 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks
May 24, 2014 | 1966 Ford Mustang
Aug 14, 2011 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks
Feb 27, 2011 | Mitsubishi Montero Sport Cars & Trucks
Nov 12, 2010 | 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab
Apr 21, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks
Feb 04, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet K1500
Jan 25, 2010 | 1984 Ford Bronco II
Sep 14, 2009 | 2000 Ford F150 Flareside SuperCab
25 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!