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The biggest problem you can have would include venting. If your engine, or transmission vents are plugged you can blow seals which will cause major oil leaks and repair bills.
OEM Recommended fluid levels can be found in your owners manual.
The oil will typically leak from the rear main bearing seal between engine and transmission, but that will appear at the bottom of the joint line, and will not reach the exhaust. This leak is expensive to fix and is usually left as is.
A leak from the cam cover gasket can drip into the exhaust.
The other typical leak is from the distributor shaft o-ring seal. This appears at the top of the join line between engine and trans, and can blow back onto the exhaust.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKS,CAN BE FOUND AROUND PAN GASKET.CHECK PAN GASKET,IF IT LOOKS WET AND YOU SEE FLUID DRIPPING AROUND THE EDGE OF OIL PAN, REPLACE PAN GASKET, WHILE YOU REPLACING PAN GASKET REPLACE TRANSMISSION FILTER WHILE OIL PAN OFF.IF TRANSMISSION OIL PAN NOT LEAKING, CHECK TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINES GOING INTO RADIATOR YOU WILL LOOSE A LOT OF FLUID THERE ALSO TORQUE SHAFT SEAL WILL CAUSE HEAVY FLUID LEAK WHILE ENGINE RUNNING CHECK OIL COOLER LINES AND LOOK AT THE TORQUE AREA WHILE ENGINE RUNNING YOU WILL SEE FLUID POURING WHILE ENGINE RUNNING THE OIL PUMP PRESSURE WILL PUSH FLUID OUT AT THE LEAKING AREAS.
The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.
The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.
The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.
While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.
Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.
Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.
You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.
Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.
Hello, there are many reasons for an engine to burn oil. Replacing a head gasket will stop leaks in the head, but it is not a cure all. You can have bad compression, bad oil rings, and valve guides that are worn. A new head gasket can fix compression leaks between cylinders and oil and antifreeze leaks.
Overall bad compression means both the oil rings and power rings are worn out. You can have bad oil rings and still run reasonable well if the power rings are okay. The valve guides are the small seals on the stems and with an overhead cam they are in the heart of the engine. Sometimes when the valley of an engine is plugged up, the oil can not return to the crankcase fast enough. The pooling oil is more apt to lay by the valve stem seals and be drawn into the combustion chamber.
Also check the PCV valve which may snorkel up oil into the induction system. Another sign of bad rings is blowby on the vent pipe.
Raise the car. Put a pan the holds at least 2 gallons under the oil plug Loosen and remove the bolt in the very bottom of the oil pan and remove; the oil will flow out and into the pan. Clean and replace the oil plug, tightening it snug. the plug has no load on it, you don't have to tighten it really tight. Tight enough to stay in and seal against the oil is all that's required. Of course, you also want to enure it doesn't fall out... Unscrew the oil filter. (Use the appearance of the new one you bought as a guide for what you are looking for.) The filter is often difficult to remove. There are special tool for removing them — you should probably get one. DO NOT USE AN OIL FILTER WRENCH TO INSTALL THE NEW FILTER. Dump the oil ou of the old filter sufficiently to handle it without sloshing. Put the mounting surface of the new filter and the old filter together to ensure that the rubber rings are the same. Better to find out you have the wrong filter now that after you screw it on, and have your new oil leak out. Pour some of the new oil into the new filter. Starting the engine will fill it up, but the longer it takes to fill, the longer the engine runs without a good supply of oil. The pre-filling you do shortens that period. screw the new filter into place. Carefully find the point where the rubber sealing ring makes contact, and tighten the filter 1/4 turn farther. Do not over-tighten the filter. Remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine, and pour in 5 quarts of oil. Look to ensure no oil is leaking. I once forgot to replace the oil plug and poured 5 Qts trough the engine onto the ground. That is bad enough. But if I had not checked before I started the engine I might have destroyed the engine as well.. Check the oil dipstick to ensure you have enough oil in the engine. If no leaks, and enough oil on the stick, start the engine without using the gas pedal — just let it rise to an idle on its own. Look under the car for any leaks. If the oil filter is the wrong one, or is improperly installed it will leak right away. If no leaks after 1 or two minutes, lower the car and shut the hood.
Well for starters, that oil has to be going somewhere, obviously. So most likely it is the piston rings, these wear out over time regardless of how well taken care of your car is. Check the exhaust out while the car is running, if there is a white-blueish smoke, thats piston rings. if it is more grey-ish, thats most likely a head gasket, in which case check the coolant overflow for color, and remove the oil filler cap and look on the inside, if you see a nasty looking white film, thats caused by water/coolant in the oil, most likely leaking through a bad head gasket. Or it may be leaking out somewhere, if there are no puddles it may be leaking near a hot exhaust pipe/manifold and burning off.
As long as you keep enough oil in it, it should be fine for a few years, just get it fixed eventually. in the mean time you can also use oil additives to help string things along, ask the rep at your local auto parts store. hope this helps!