Question about Chrysler LeBaron

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Just changed the brake booster and the driver side caliper and now no fluid comes out when I try to bleed the caliper. The rear brakes bled OK, bu t there still is no pedal. Does the engine need to

It is a 1983 Chrysler convertible with a 2.6 motor

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  • 180 Answers

Could need a master cylinder,start at front line on master cylinder, loosen it slowly with someone pushing on brake pedal lightly.That will let u know if there is pressure to the front calipers.

Posted on Nov 01, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Thunder55
  • 318 Answers

SOURCE: no fluid come out when bleeding brakes drivers side front

Brake rubber flex line could be collapsed,,or kinked,,,i suggest loosening of the line at the master cylinder distribution block (this will give you the ability of loosening off one line at a time,,and have some one push the brake pedal down,,if you see fluid at this point then you know it has to be the line or the caliper.
if you get no pressure from the distribution block then its the master cylinders fault

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

badealer888
  • 414 Answers

SOURCE: i replace a caliper and tried to bleed rear

did you gravity or pressure bleed?

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

mecanica03
  • 874 Answers

SOURCE: bleed brakes on 2003 toyota corolla

i try to help you, firts refill brake fluid container,open purge valve in one wheel front only,wait few minutes when drops fluid, close this valve and open other wheel, same procedure, finally repeat this in each 4 wheels

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75197 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal dropping to floor

do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

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xdmann
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SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

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2 Answers

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Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

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Bled my brakes manually changed pads rotors caliper master cylinder shoes wheel cylinder and I can stand up on my brake pad and it will only come to a slow stop


SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A BAD BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD VACCUM TO IT WHEN YOU TAKE THE HOSE OFF SHOULD HIS THE BOOSTER IS THE ASSIST FOR THE BRAKES CHECK THAT AND GET BACK TO ME I HAVE ALSO SEEN ABS TROUBLES

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1 Answer

Spongy brakes


So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

Mar 29, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

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Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

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BRAKE BOOSTER?


A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.

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1 Answer

Brakes still spongy


need to perform abs service bleed, as far as i know only the dealer can do

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