Question about Cars & Trucks
This is kind of hard to judge without hearing it. Lets say the noise is the pellets in the Catalytic converter that some types of automakers used, with low flow at idle, the loose pellets can bounce around until the flow increases and pins them to the insides of the Catalytics.
However, if you rebuilt the motor you would know some mechanical stuff. I can move on to more possibilities.
Oil pressure starvation can make the pushrods rattle in the rocker arms. The engine oil pressure will cushion the critical area between the rocker arm and the pushrod seat.
On the rebuilds, have you worked on the heads? Like valve spring tension and pushrod clearance? I have had engines that would idle perfect until accelerated and return to idle clanging and missing. The valve springs were shot. Then I have had some GM motors that had hydraulic lifters yet the pushrods were different lengths and that is how the pushrod clearance was made; by changing individual pushrods to get the correct clearance.
This is something that can occur when the valve seats are cut. The valve stem can ride up into the head slightly when the seats are cut.
Now you may have replaced the camshaft or the lifters or not. But it is recommended that each lifter is paired with a camshaft lobe. If you mixed the lifters into different positions, you may have distortions that are resulting in noisy clearance problems. For that matter, camshaft bearings may be loose.
The Jeep and American Motors cars used a 232 CID engine too. Can't say what components were different but you may have mixed parts.
Now some models used a Rattle or knock sensor, and in the old days, you could get a rattle from weak distributor springs in the breaker plate. The mechanical advance would throw out too fast.
I am curious. Would like to know what you found.
Posted on Oct 31, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Wherever you can find a threaded port in the cooling system should work,as long as it is the same thread as your sending unit.If you cannot find a compatible threaded port,you may have to go to a hardware store and find some fittings that will adapt your sending unit to whatever threaded port is available.If you can not find one,most engine blocks have two (one on each side) threaded plugs for the water jacket.If you have to,locate the sending unit there with appropriate adapters.And as a last resort,you could purchase an aftermarket temp gauge and use it,as it comes with an assortment of adapters/fittings.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
SOURCE: TIMING ON OVERHAULED ENGINE
if you overhauled the engine and replaced the timing chain & gears, as long as you installed them properly and have installed the ign wires in the right places, the distributor is "locked in place" and is non adjustable (unless you are me, but that's another story) Computer makes all timing changes.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
SOURCE: jeep cj7 trans
Yes your vehicle has a pilot bushing. It will be in the center of the flywheel. The tip of the input shaft goes into the bushing to add support to the input shaft. It will be either a bronze bushing or a needle bearing. There are one of two ways to extract it. Remove the flywheel and knock it out from the back side. Or you can buy a pricey tool that spreads internally to catch the back side and pull it out. My favorite way and the cheap way is to pack grease in the hole in the center and get a wood dowel that fits snugly in to the center of the bearing. Place the dowel in the hole and use a hammer to sharply hit the end of the dowel. The way this works is a simple principal of hydraulics. The pressure from the dowel being hit forces the grease in to the hole and the pressure of the grease pushes the old pilot bearing out of the hole since liquids are not compressable. Then just tap the new pilot bushing or bearing in to the hole. The trick is to get a dowel that just goes in to the hole snugly with very little clearance so the grease can not squeeze out past the dowel when hit. Trust me this works well. I have done this hundreds of times. Good luck. Feel free to inquire more if you need more help. Ley me know how it goes for you.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
SOURCE: oil capacity
To the best of my knowledge the capacity is 6qts with filter change. But...I would use 5qts, start it up and circulate oil, then add additional qt if needed. A tip on oil filters...wipe some oil on gasket to keep it from adhering to filter pad when installing. Also, if position installed allows, pre fill filter with oil before starting...dosen't have to be really full, but any oil in there is less air that hast to be expelled before oil reaches crankshaft.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
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